The Shorehouse is a celebration of coastal living, starting with wraparound vistas of Swanbourne Beach. The handsome deck, whitewashed walls, bright pastel splashes and distressed timber conjure a luxe-casual beach house aesthetic. Smiley floor staff keep the mood suitably breezy.

The kitchen adopts an equally relaxed Sunday-by-the-sea approach. Here’s a steak tartare, smartly lightened with a vivid romesco sauce and crunchy sprouts (blue pea, mung bean and lentil, legume-spotters). There’s a platter of upmarket crudo, starring raw snapper, scallops and tuna.

The charcoal-burning Josper oven earns its keep by lending smoke and char to Harvey beef, fat tiger prawns and other pristine West Australian proteins.

In addition to its breakfast, lunch and dinner cartes, a small deck menu offers oysters, sandwiches and other seaside-friendly snacks in the afternoon: ideal accompaniments to a cellar brimming with cuvees and Bloody Marys of various heat levels.

But what do we love best about The Shorehouse? Sandy feet are more than welcome.