This modern Greek taverna is a cliche-free zone. Yiamas pays homage to Greek classics, but also weaves in influences from Cypriot, Turkish and Levantine cuisines. The room’s minimalist fit-out is contemporary, and zero plates get smashed. Instead, they’re sent out into the wild carrying sharp takes on Hellenic cooking, from upbeat vegetarian dolmades and elegant Greek hand pies (pastourmadopitakia to the purists) to a cool baklava and bay leaf parfait ice cream sandwich. Fire plays a big role across much of the menu. Animals including goat, lamb and suckling pig are butchered on-site, slow-roasted on the rotisserie over coals, and served hot for your share-friendly feast.

The drinks list gives Greco tipples the respect they deserve, including xinomavro and assyrtiko. You'll also find mastika – the sweet liqueur from the Greek island of Chios that’s said to aid digestion. Of course, there’s ouzo too, which you can start your meal with, either neat or diluted Greek-style with ice and water. Or, if you’re after a slower burn, there are Greek, Lebanese and Georgian wines to spend a few hours sinking into.

Yiamas by by Michael Roach, Laurence Greenfield and Philip Arnold (also behind Vinotto, Community Coffee Co).