Coppa. Provolone. Pickled capsicum. All of it is crammed between slipper-sized slabs of ciabatta at Lulu’s Cantina. The small, walk-ins-only annex is next door to Lulu La Delizia, the Subiaco osteria that’s been drawing loyal pasta fans (including Nigella Lawson) since 2016.

Lunch might look like tuna crudo dressed with macerated lemon and capers, a bitter endive salad spiked with gorgonzola, or a rotating line-up of panini including Lulu’s famous meatballs pressed into a roll.

In the evening, it edges into wine bar territory. A daily pasta special and those meatballs – now served with soft polenta and grated parmigiano – emerge from the osteria next door.

Aperitivo options rotate regularly: perhaps baccalà crostini one day, maybe smoked and honeyed nuts, olives, pickled peppers or potato chips on another.