Coppa. Provolone. Pickled capsicum. All of it is crammed between slipper-sized slabs of ciabatta at Lulu’s Cantina. The small, walk-ins-only annex is next door to Lulu La Delizia , the Subiaco osteria that’s been drawing loyal pasta fans (including Nigella Lawson) since 2016.

Lunch might look like tuna crudo dressed with macerated lemon and capers, a bitter endive salad spiked with gorgonzola, or a rotating line-up of panini including Lulu’s famous meatballs pressed into a roll.

In the evening, it edges into wine bar territory. A daily pasta special and those meatballs – now served with soft polenta and grated parmigiano – emerge from the osteria next door.

Aperitivo options rotate regularly: perhaps baccalà crostini one day, maybe smoked and honeyed nuts, olives, pickled peppers or potato chips on another.