Subiaco Continental

The corner of Roberts and Rokeby roads in Subiaco has seen a lot. For three decades, it was home to the Subiaco Pavilion Markets, before being boarded up and sitting empty for 15 years. The high-profile corner is now home to One Subiaco, a development whose standout resident is Subiaco Continental. The sprawling 400-person eatery is by Miles Hull (owner Ruinbar, Jetty Bar & Eats, ex-Little Creatures).

Europe does a lot of the heavy lifting on Subi Continental’s appealing all-day menu: gildas, mussel escabeche toasts and crudites might star on the snacks menu. The pasta section has included lamb ragu caserecce and pumpkin tortellini with a burnt butter and sage sauce. There’s a tartare, crudo and cheeseburger, plus steak frites, duck confit, fish of the day and other business lunch go-tos. A seafood cabinet in the open kitchen holds oysters, prawns and other raw-bar goodies.

The drinking is very good across the board. House cocktails stick to the familiar – think Negroni spritzes, an elderflower-spiked riff on the Southside, plus a tweaked version of Aussie bartender Sam Ross’s modern classic, The Paperplane. The wine list is as notable for its bang-per-buck as its respect for both traditional and contemporary wine styles. West Australian brewers are well represented on the beer side of things.

Inside, designer Kate Archibald (Mane Osborne Park, La Condesa) used sandstone, blond timber and other neutral tones to create an inviting, open space. The room is set with numerous seating options ranging from dining tables and bar seats to medium-rise counters and cushioned benches. Floor-to-ceiling windows seem to be as much about bringing the outside in as it is showing off those dishy interiors.