The Sentinel appears to have subtly sprouted out of the bustling corner of St Georges Terrace and William Street. Timber struts resembling a forest, panels of greenery, moody lighting, a wall of wine, leather booths; an earthy connection to urban chicness.

Suits conducting wheelings and dealings and hungry tourists from nearby hotels are interspersed among office workers hunting down a cheeky, after-work cocktail. The Sentinel comfortably fills the gap in the city’s few sophisticated business dining options.

All the bases are covered; starting with a breakfast of pork-and-bean cassoulet, or an omelette with spinach and gruyere.

Drawing on WA’s great produce with a splash of Europe, the lunch and dinner menu delivers with dishes such as chicken-liver parfait with fresh fruit relish on a toasted brioche, and Broome bug tail and tiger prawn risotto with bisque and asparagus. Or have a rib-eye and hand-cut chips with a Tuscan Sangiovese.