Rojiura Curry Samurai is a specialist Hokkaido curry rice shop by Nobukazu Muraki (Modern Eatery, Kailis Leederville). Muraki was born in Noboribetsu in the south of Hokkaido. And, like most people who grew up in Japan’s northernmost major island, he ate his fair share of Hokkaido curry (a thinner, more soup-like curry) while studying. He also worked nights at specialist Hokkaido curry shops, which helps to explain why the curry here brims with so much flavour.

Taste aside, the curry served at Rojiura is notable for how customisable it is. Diners can choose from four different soup bases including vegan variants (the curry base is vegan by nature but the regular broth is enriched with a stock made from chicken and pork); pick a spice level from zero to 10; and select a small, medium or large serving portion of rice.

As to what’s in the curry, options range from fried chicken and braised pork belly to a vegan-friendly, all-vegetable option, plus additional rice toppings such as fried oysters, soft-boiled eggs and fried broccoli. There are also dishes like Hokkaido shortgrain rice, Kirara. The beer list champions Sapporo, Yebisu and other Hokkaido-born beers. Wines from Yoichi Winery – yes, the same Yoichi behind the whisky – are also available.

Wondering what the name means? Muraki says it translates to “narrow space” and nods to Shafto Lane – the narrow passage connecting Murray and Hay streets in the CBD.