Occupying a site that’s seen little more than weeds for the past two decades, this restaurant from Siobhan Blumann and Hamish Fleming is a buzzing landmark at the state’s most important port.

The striking blue shipping container, outdoor courtyard and roughly painted brick interior generate a street-smart ambience, a perfect match for the laid-back and intelligent service.

Head chef Kurt Sampson’s menu takes well-executed convention and gives it an international spin. Early weekday risers grab jaffles (Nutella and pear; tomato and gruyere; lamb, minted peas and almonds). Weekend brunches can venture into less-charted territory, with Kefalograviera (sheep’s milk) cheese and za’atar flatbreads.

The dinner menu takes on a share-plate format, with carnivores, pescatarians, vegetarians and sweet tooths all catered for.The extensive wine list sticks primarily to Australia and Europe with the odd venture elsewhere.

The wood-fired pizzas are genuine crowd pleasers – they can even be taken away. Otherwise, there’s always nearby sister venues Flipside, Dominion League, Mechanics' Institute and Mrs Brown.