Masa Mesa is a deeply personal project for chef Erick Martinez and his wife Lara Martinez. The menu draws equally from his Salvadoran heritage and her Argentinian roots, while also folding in flavours they’ve encountered travelling through Latin America.

The star of the show is the pupusa – a dish that, in El Salvador, carries the weight of national pride. At Masa Mesa, the thick masa tortillas are stuffed with pork (cooked in its own fat, rillette style), black beans and a trio of cheeses, then pressed flat and grilled until the filling melts. They arrive at the table topped with curtido, a sharp cabbage slaw that cuts through the richness.

The cosy dining room features foldable windows that open up to keep things airy on warm days. The best seats in the house are close by.

This neighbourhood spot, built around the street foods and comfort dishes of El Salvador and Argentina, shows WA that Latin American cuisine goes beyond tacos.