It’s possible the entrance to La Cholita was installed purely to mess with the tequila-addled. The cut-out floor reveals a back-lit cellar lurking in the foundations below, but don’t worry, it’s covered in perspex.

It’s a relief considering there’s a wall of 120 tequilas to work through, plus mezcal, sangria, Spanish and South American beers and wines.

The party heaves most nights, but a table is usually presented quickly, even if it’s just a couple of crates against a wall of graffiti. Otherwise there’s the cushy window-side booths set against floor-to-ceiling windows, providing plenty of sidewalk entertainment. And you don't want to chance it, you can always book a spot ahead of time.

The guacamole accompanied by crisp house-made corn chips are a must. Capturing the liveliness of Mexico City, other share plates might include street-style corn; fish tacos; and a light salad of quinoa and avocado.

Larger portions such as pork belly or Angus beef grilled with chimichurri are also available. But a late-night, three cheese and jalapeno quesadilla is the perfect pre-emptive strike on a hangover.