Brought by Daisuke Hiramatsu (of Hifumiya and Jigoro ) and the crew at Tsukumo Group, Ginza Nana Alley recreates Japan’s lantern-lit alleyway markets in Perth.

Japanese-style yokocho service means that diners at any of the five eateries at the 70-seat indoor Ginza Alley can chat with the friendly chefs while they’re cooking under the lantern-light and bright signs characteristic of Japanese food alleys.

At Yakitori Washokudo, you can sit right across the charcoal grill and watch the chefs turn skewers of tare-glazed chicken thigh, gizzard and wing.

Onomichi Ramen Mitsuya serves Hiroshima's Onomichi-style ramen. More soy-sauce-forward and lighter than its tonkotsu ramen cousin, it uses a unique blend of chicken and seafood stock rather than pork.

The jewel of Ginza Nana Alley is Ginza Midai, a 12-seat, reservation-only oden kappo. This comfort-style one-pot dish involves simmering daikon and other seasonal ingredients in crystal-clear broth.

Ginza Nana Alley also celebrates foreign influences on Japanese cuisine. There’s crisp tonkatsu (pork cutlet) at Kubota Tonkatsu; and gorgeously wobbly purin (pudding) at the European-influenced kissa (tea house) bar Monkey and Bird.