Gibney is a luxe brasserie and grill, with oceanfront views stretching from South Cottesloe to Rottnest. As you approach, strains of classical music offer a glimpse of the upscale dining experience that awaits. While the views and waistcoated staff are impressive, the fit-out by Rezen Studio holds its own, particularly after sunset.

An enthusiasm for classic French cooking is found in every dish. The seafood bar offers Pacific oyster kilpatrick with preserved chilli and smoked lardo, while the grill boasts western rock lobster with curried buckwheat and vadouvan butter. The standout pasta selection is the Shark Bay clam spaghetti. As for mains, the Gibney caesar (served tableside) and Fremantle swordfish (300 grams) are knockouts. For dessert, find chocolate cake with olive oil gelato and strawberries and cream, which is dished up tableside, with shaved red berry ice and strawberry consommé.

The vast drinks menu features everything from whisky to gin, cognac and wine, including Perth’s largest champagne selection. Yet it’s the tableside cocktails, particularly the smoked Negroni, that steal the show. Made with gin, honeycomb vermouth, and coffee-stained Campari, it’s not just a drink, it’s a spectacle.

Gibney is run by the Kailis Hospitality Group, whose portfolio also includes Island Market Trigg and Kailis Fish Market Cafe.