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Est Home of Torung Market is a modest restaurant showcasing the lesser-known flavours of Thai cuisine. Its hearty curries, punchy salads and fragrant soups – which all have adjustable heat levels – are backed by refreshing drinks like silky Thai milk tea and coconut water.

And the menu’s not afraid to bring out the regional classics. Koi (described as north-eastern Thai beef tartare) emerges from the kitchen as a plate of finely chopped raw beef with a biting side of herbs. There’s also sup nomai, a steamed bamboo shoot salad that’s popular in the north-eastern region of Isan, which packs a punch with fresh herbs, chilli and fish sauce. As you might do in Isan, you can order your mains with a side of sticky rice.

There are also southern specialties here, including kanom jeen (mackerel in an unapologetically spicy curry) served with a platter of bun (a thin vermicelli), pickles, bean sprouts and herbs. Its generous chunks of fish and rich curry are a fitting homage to the fishing communities in southern Thailand. You’ll also find more familiar favourites such as pad see ew, hearty massaman beef curry and a chicken larb that’s surprisingly, but not unwelcomingly, bitter.

Don’t be misled by its urban-leaning exposed brick walls and neon light signage. Est Home of Torung Market serves Thai classics that’ll make you feel like you’re at home, or inspire you to make Thailand your home. That was owner Immy Deery’s goal when she opened in 2021. Longing for the flavours of her home country, she wanted to introduce them – alongside underrepresented dishes – to Perth diners.

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Updated: June 13th, 2024

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