Long before Chinatown emerged in Northbridge, the local Mediterranean community was growing tomatoes and importing espresso machines. Apartment blocks may now overshadow those vegetable patches, but one of them also houses Brika, a superb reminder of local history.

Sundays are busiest, as Perth’s Greek community exits mass at Northbridge Orthodox Church and collectively heads for the restaurant. They’re there for Brika’s fried saganaki, slow-cooked lamb and anything chargrilled, such as the octopus or pork belly. The loukoumades (Greek doughnuts) and baklava are just bonuses.

By night couples tear apart pita bread and dunk it in house-made tzatziki, while chatty groups work their way through the selection of wine, ouzo and other Greek spirits.

Set on the outskirts of Northbridge, Brika is far enough away from the late-night souvlaki crowd to keep it at bay, but close enough to The Ellington Jazz club for a pre- or post-meal slice of culture.

On weekends, breakfast is available from 8am to 11am, and a neat coffee window keeps takeaway customers from flooding the restaurant.