It’s possible the entrance to La Cholita was installed purely to mess with the tequila-addled. The cut-out floor reveals a back-lit cellar lurking in the foundations below, but don’t worry, it’s covered in perspex.
It’s a relief considering there’s a wall of 120 tequilas to work through, plus mezcal, sangria, Spanish and South American beers and wines.
The party heaves most nights and even though bookings aren’t accepted, a table is usually presented quickly, even if it’s just a couple of crates against a wall of graffiti. Otherwise there’s the cushy window-side booths set against floor-to-ceiling windows, providing plenty of sidewalk entertainment. If a wait doesn’t appeal, pop down the road to little sister, Pleased to Meet You, another of Clint Nolan's many venues.
The guacamole accompanied by little pillows of house-made corn chips are a must. Capturing the liveliness of Mexico City, other share plates include grilled corn on the cob sprinkled with paprika; fish tacos; grilled octopus with smoky potato; and a refreshing watermelon salad with rocket and pumpkin seeds.
Larger portions such as pork hock or Angus beef grilled with chimichurri are also available. But a late-night, three cheese and jalapeño quesadilla is the perfect pre-emptive strike on a hangover.