Marumo

Good things come to those who wait. You’ll need to keep this in mind if you want to go to Marumo.

First there’s the issue of getting a table at the modest Japanese diner. With bookings open just one day every few months and the restaurant booked out well in advance, this is not the kind of place that you just drop into for dinner.

Then there’s the issue of finding it. Squeezed in among a random array of Chelsea Village businesses, even Sherlock would be hard-pressed to locate the place. But don’t let this deter you, either.

Once seated at one of the 30 spots in the minimalist room, you’ll be treated to seven skillfully executed courses, at a price ($80) that’s almost too good to be true.

The omakase-style menu is decided by chef-owner Moe Oo and it could take you three hours to work your way through it. The craft and creativity of the one-man kitchen is on show in dishes such as slow-cooked egg oozing in a rich broth of enokis and shitakes; juicy roast chicken and edamame; and black-rice parfait with mango and crisp lotus root.

Green tea is part of the package, but if wine is more your thing, don’t forget to bring your own.