Threecoins & Sons is a traditional Italian restaurant by the Trequattrini family, who also run bravado-filled osteria Testun a few doors up. For close to a decade they ran this space as Threecoins, and built its reputation for sincere Italian cooking before reopening with a new name in 2023.

The menu is a round-up of Italian favourites instantly recognisable to anyone that’s ever eaten in a restaurant set with a gingham tablecloth. House-made is a recurring theme. Giant plastic tubs full of house giardiniera and olives sit on the kitchen bench. Stockpots bubble away on the burner. A heavy-duty pasta extruder makes the house-made pastas (think long and short eggless pastas, an egg pasta, a filled pasta, a ricotta gnocchi). Vitello tonnato, burrata with caponata and seafood fritto misto feature among the snacks; steak, market fish and plates of lamb chops hot off the grill might make up the mains.

In addition to the usual ordering categories – antipasti, pasta, secondi, contorni – the menu also features a delicatessen section heavy with salumi and formaggio, plus a section dedicated to pinsa, Rome’s famous crisp, cloud-like flatbread. The pinsas range from a margherita to a white-based Hawaiian riff featuring mortadella and a pineapple salsa.

The sharply priced wine menu is split between blue-chip styles and the wilder, more rogue cuvees you’d expect to find at Testun.