Fluffy, charcoal-grilled lamb koftas with puffy, baked-to-order wholemeal pita bread. Bright, lively salads. Dense peanut parfait cloaked in a featherweight chocolate sheath. If only all service station food was like Servo, housed in the former Blue Flamingo space inside the redeveloped Leederville Hotel.

Step inside this handsome 90-person diner and you’ll see a giant black girder studded with wine glasses hover over the bar. Bi-fold windows blur the lines between indoors and the streetscape of buzzy Electric Lane. Metal grills beautify the room. Despite the raw, industrial aesthetic, there’s also a casual, easygoing energy underscoring the space as well as the menu.

The carte is a freewheeling deep dive into flavour. You might find dishes ranging from raw fish teamed with yuzu, pomelo and puffed green rice to fried chicken with garlic cucumbers and various shish skewers (pork belly, Wagyu, chicken) grilled over a Japanese konro grill. While the dinner menu is a sprawling affair designed for all-in, shared eating, the menu at lunchtime is shorter and has been written with lighter, brighter daytime eating in mind. A changing array of salads lines the counter of the open kitchen.

The idea, says head chef Michael Antonievich (ex-Bennelong, is to create a versatile eating and drinking experience.

Although Antonievich oversees the kitchen, the menu is a group effort involving the precinct’s executive chef Damien Young and Jesse Blake (Petition Kitchen, Eye Heart Rabbit). Blake is one of many key State Buildings staff members lending their know-how to the project. Gun sommelier Emma Farrelly is behind the clipped, fun wine list; and cocktail whiz Eoin Kenny has assembled a neat drinks list, including thoughtful no-alcohol options such as a turmeric and mango lassi, and a peach and jalapeno highball.

Updated: December 20th, 2021

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