Despite Nomstar being Scott and Grace Wang’s first foray into the world of cooking, the restaurant has quietly asserted itself as a serious ramen destination. The house-made noodles are a reassuring sign, but it’s the deep, milky-coloured soup that sets Nomstar apart.

Made from slowly soaking and boiling pork and chicken bones for three days, this style of broth is known as tonkotsu. At Nomstar, batches of soup can use up to 100 kilograms of bones.

But whereas many tonkotsu specimens rely on brute force and extreme fattiness, Nomstar’s version is balanced, and tastes deep, lush and porky, but not cloyingly so. The decision to serve slender, spaghettini-like noodles is no accident: the noodles’ increased surface area enables them to really latch onto the broth.

The kitchen pays similar attention to the rest of the toppings, from the bright, high-definition bamboo shoots that garnish bowls, to the silky, thinly sliced chashu braised pork draped over the noodles.

Diners can customise their bowls. Choose a soup flavour – Ryo’s Spicy Miso, it’s worth noting, hums with a gentle chilli buzz rather than weapons-grade spice – then gussy up your order with extra pork, soy-flavoured egg (ajitama) or even noodles (kaedama). Side dishes include lightly fried chicken karaage and silky gyoza dumplings.

Updated: January 18th, 2022

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