For Guy Jeffreys the words seasonal, local and ethical aren’t marketing tools. These are the sentiments the chef at Millbrook Winery puts into action every day.

Much of the produce he uses is from Millbrook’s own orchard, olive grove and kitchen garden. Where that falls short,it’s supplemented by local growers. Talk to Jeffreys and there’s an enthusiasm that tells you that if he weren’t a chef, he’d still be getting his hands dirty.

While growing your own and having a grasp on provenance is laudable, it has to be backed up on the plate. While Jeffreys could easily knock out crowd-pleasers, he stretches and reaches with his menu. He challenges diners to think about what they’re eating in the subtlest of ways, from simple rejected potatoes to Fremantle sardines. The duck hearts, boldly skewered and laid out with pickled veg, are hard to forget.

Millbrook’s dining room is large, but it pays to book in advance for a table overlooking the lake. Weather permitting, a spot on the deck is a must.

Just be forewarned, lunch can sometimes run to Jarrahdale time, so maybe schedule a tasting at the cellar door, too. If you’re unfamiliar with Millbrook, gear up for red varieties such as viognier, sangiovese and tempranillo.