Running a restaurant is hard. Harder still when you’ve taken over the space left by one of Perth’s most-hallowed degustation destinations. Foodies moped when Jackson’s closed, but fortunately, fine-dining fans have a worthy replacement in St Michael 6003.

Two chefs with significant runs on the board are behind the intimate yet relaxed 54-seater. Scott O'Sullivan made a name for himself with Red Cabbage and Todd Stuart’s Petite Mort is equally highly regarded.

The result of their pooled efforts – channeled by resident chef, Adam Sayles – is classy, technique-driven small-plate dishes delivered as either a prix fixe or a-la-carte menu.

There’s ocean trout, blow torched to order; roast lamb shoulder that’s spent 24 hours in the sous vide, then pulled, pressed, fried and served with fermented veggies; and an inventive parsnip sponge topped with cornflake crunch.

The special occasion-feel restaurant (with an appropriately discerning wine list) is named after O'Sullivan’s dad. Michael is a religious Irishman who lives in Manchester. He’s always encouraged his son’s culinary passion, despite the challenges of the kitchen. The name also relates to the archangel – the guys reckon it might be handy to have him looking over their shoulders.