“Some people could say it’s politically insensitive.”

As far as understatements go, this one-liner from Margaret River winemaker Nic Peterkin is right up there. Or, depending on your feelings on the state of American politics, right down there. Regardless, it’s safe to say that a recent addition to Peterkin’s Las Vino family is raising eyebrows.

The wine is a chardonnay called “Fuck Him”. On the label, a remarkable likeness of incumbent POTUS Donald J Trump is illustrated using sentences describing the wine’s global back-story (“We pressed the grapes using a Swiss press, and a Mexican winemaker and Dutch girl transferred the wine into French oak. It was then sealed with a cork from Portugal, with wax from the Czech Republic”). It’s one of the more creative – and certainly most potable – protests against what’s happening right now in the Land of the Free.

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“It wasn’t really about Trump himself, but what he stood for,” says Peterkin, of the wine’s inspiration. “Wine is such an international product. You couldn’t have a good bottle of wine without all these different components. As soon as you read the label, you’ll know the wine is about being inclusive and incorporating the whole world. Wine brings people together regardless of their background.”

While the name and image on the bottle has generated plenty of Facebook discussion, the juice inside is no afterthought. Rich yet restrained, it’s a contemporary expression of Margaret River chardonnay and combines fruit power with well-weighted, nutty oak. By any other name – or with anyone else’s picture on the label – it’d still be a delicious thing to drink.

“When you do something like this, there’s no point putting a crap wine in the bottle,” says Peterkin. “I’d say this is arguably one of the best wines we’ve made.”

Fuck Him is $55 per bottle. A limited amount of wine is still available by mail order direct from the winery.