Fuyu, the elegant modern Asian restaurant opened in Nedlands by David Coomer, will close its doors after service on Thursday April 13, the day before Good Friday.
“We’re sad to announce, with a heavy heart, after a very difficult decision, we have decided not to renew our lease,” reads a post on the restaurant’s Facebook and Instagram pages. “Thank you for your support, hope to see you before we close.”
“It’s been a ride, that’s for sure, but it's been a good one,” says a reflective, surprisingly upbeat Coomer when Broadsheet drops in on the journeyman chef in his restaurant following the news. “I just wanted to say thanks to everyone who’s supported the restaurant since we opened.”
What’s next? Although Coomer is in talks with other parties about opportunities in the city, he says he’s looking forward to spending more time on his farm and trufferie in Manjimup. Maddie Coomer, Coomer’s eldest daughter as well as Fuyu’s restaurant manager, admits the announcement was difficult to make, but says the decision is – in the long run – the right one.
“Dad can finally do what he’s always wanted to do,” she says about her father’s retirement from active kitchen duty.
Although Asian elements are a key component of the modern Australian playbook, Coomer was one of the first local chefs to successfully interpret eastern flavours in a fine dining setting. At his legendary Shenton Park fine diner Star Anise, dishes like Chinese-style roast Glenloth pigeon, a Manjimup marron and blue fin tuna tom yum soup and his ma hor – a winning combination of seared scallops, caramelised duck neck, pineapple and peanut that he resurrected for the Fuyu menu – announced him as a force to be reckoned with. As food director at Print Hall, he oversaw the opening menu at the precinct’s high-energy Asian eating house The Apple Daily where diners laid waste to platters of drunken chicken and Sichuan-fried quail.
After taking over the pans at Pata Negra in 2015, Coomer rebooted the restaurant as Fuyu (the restaurant is named after a variety of persimmon) in early 2016 and won over diners with his elegant, confident Asian cooking. Vietnamese beef tartare and Chinese lacquered quail rubbed shoulders with textbook Singaporean-style curry puffs and Japanese-style deep-fried fried cauliflower seasoned with furikake and miso. Get in for one last taste and pay your respects to one of the city’s longest-serving cooking talents.
Fuyu’s last service will be dinner on Thursday April 13. Reservations can be made online and on (08) 9389 5517.