The Wolf of Leighton Beach: Coastal Bar and Eatery Al Lupo Opens in North Fremantle

Broadsheet would like to take this opportunity to apologise for an editorial oversight. When we broke the news in November that Al Lupo was coming to Leighton Beach, the headline framed Al Lupo as a “beautifully designed modern beach bar”: a somewhat ambiguous statement. As it turns out, Al Lupo is a beautifully designed, 120-person modern bar, full stop. It just happens to be by the beach.

So while the widescreen glass makes the most of those coastal vistas and Freeman Loop streetscapes, Al Lupo is free of staff wearing Breton stripes, boating memorabilia on the walls and other instances of predictable maritime set-dressing. There’s seafood on the menu, sure, but the kitchen’s range goes beyond fish, while the drinks offering is similarly far-reaching. Then again, these things are to be expected when you’ve got established operators running the show.

“You can always get better,” says Greg Leaver who, together with business partner Alex Brinis, finally opened Al Lupo in late December after years of planning and paperwork. Although Leaver has form when it comes to Freo venues – our man opened X-Wray, Strange Company and Ronnie Nights – this foray into North Freo feels personal as it’s also where he and Brinis live. “This is an evolution on Strange [Company]. On Ronnie’s. We’re always trying to make it more functional. More fun.”

The early signs suggest Leaver and Brinis have made the most of their home advantage. Hospitality design whiz and frequent Leaver collaborator Michael Patroni (Space Agency) has created a contemporary vision of marble and timber – some blonde, some salvaged – that suggests a Sunday sesh of a higher order. Pride of place looks set to be a close contest between the sunken sunroom at the front of the bar and the tables outside, which have been cleverly arranged on the northern side of the building and sheltered from the wind. An ’80s smooth jazz playlist heavy on the Ronny Jordan feels very right and very summery.

The name, incidentally, was inspired by a canine-like doodle Leaver drew on his phone one day – lupo is Italian for “wolf” – as well as the bar’s location on the corner of Freeman Loop and Leighton Beach Boulevard.

No prizes for guessing that beer is part of Al Lupo’s offering. All the tap beers (eight core brews plus one guest tap) are $9 and are served in handsome, 330ml goblet-style glasses. The wine list – co-written by Caitlin Johnston of Vinotto – nods to Australia and Europe as well as classic and au courant styles: who’s for a skin-contact verdicchio from Marche in Italy’s east? Bartender Lucky Kumar – recently back from Sydney – is behind a thoughtful cocktail list that jazzes up the classics (there’s a spicy Margarita starring both mezcal and tequila) while gently encouraging drinkers to step outside of their comfort zone. His take on a jaljeera supercharges the popular Indian spiced soda with cumin-infused vodka and fresh lime and pineapple juice.

While the menu stars oysters, scallops, octopus and good tinned fish (choose from Rizzoli anchovies from Italy or Spain’s famous Olasagasti anchovies), chef Carlos Olivari (ex- Stone Jetty, El Grotto) presents a menu that spends as much time on land as it does at sea. An oversized lamb hotdog ticks the box for one-handed snacking, the lamb kofta has savour and chew for days, while burrata with burnt peaches and silky house ricotta with grilled cucumbers both play well with springy focaccia.

Al Lupo
25 Leighton Beach Boulevard, North Fremantle

Hours:
Sun to Thu 12pm–10pm
Fri & Sat 12pm–11pm

allupobar.com
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