When it comes to burgers, Alasdair Craigie prefers to play a straight bat. The menu at his newly opened RoyAl’s Chicken & Burgers features just three variations on the classic American-style hamburger: a cheeseburger, a cheeseburger with lettuce and tomato, plus an XXL burger for the famished and the post-gym set.
“We’re not doing anything too crazy with the burgers,” says the journeyman chef. “We just wanted to keep things simple and make sure we’re delivering every time.”
Don’t assume not-crazy means not-fun. The hip-hop soundtrack and bold wall mural speaks to RoyAl’s urban bent, while the menu is peppered with Gen X pop culture references. The spicier of the two house-fermented chilli sauces is described as “Super Saiyan”, a nod to Dragonball Z. “The Re-up” gets guests their choice of any side and as much house-made lemon ice tea as they desire. The cheeseburger is known as – you guessed it – a RoyAl with cheese. It’s also a serious contender for the title of Albany Highway’s burger to beat. Comprising a chunky Angus beef patty, shaved pickles, diced onion and classic American cheddar in a toasted brioche bun, it’s a strong endorsement for not messing with a classic.
The chicken side of things is equally pleasing. Loaded with crisp and juicy pieces of chook, the po-boy rates as one of the city’s more notable interpolations of the classic New Orleans sandwich. Jointed, saucy buffalo wings are another study in getting the basics right, while well-browned Southern-style fried chicken is served with the appropriate white bread and pickle accompaniments.
RoyAl’s Chicken & Burgers
8/885 Albany Highway, East Victoria Park
(08) 9355 0901
Tue to Thu, Sun 11.30am–10pm
Fri to Sat 11.30-11pm