The first thing you notice about Pinos is the sound: cheerful Spanish conversations over the counter of the pocket-sized bakery. Then comes the smell: a comforting waft of slow-cooked beef, subtle spices and buttery pastry.
It’s a sensory experience that husband-and-wife duo Axel and Brooke Pino have curated at their eponymous empanada bakery in Subiaco.
The idea came to them during a road trip in Chile.
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SUBSCRIBE NOW“We were in the Atacama Desert when Axel [a Chilean expat] started telling me about this amazing empanada shop in town that always had a line around the door,” Brooke tells Broadsheet. “Then we realised there aren’t many places in Perth to get good empanadas, especially not as a quick, takeaway option.”
Pinos’s offering is simple: a tight edit of 12 savoury and sweet hand-crimped empanadas, each one stamped to correspond with its filling to avoid mix-ups. The portable half-moon pastries are stuffed with both classic and creative combinations: there’s the rich barbeque pork with provolone and jalapeno; peri peri lamb; curry chicken; and the Pino, made with handcut beef, merquén (smoked chilli), olive and boiled egg.
“Pino is our surname, but coincidentally also the name of the traditional beef empanada from Chile. This is the most traditional filling and we’re so happy to get feedback from Chileans and all South Americans that it reminds them of home,” says Brooke.
Further savoury takes include the breakfast empanada, a three-cheese caprese, plus a vegan variation. There’s also the apple pie, a far superior alternative to your standard Macca’s hand pie.
“We tested many different recipes, changing different ingredients until we found the right one. We then made empanadas, took them to friends and family, and after everyone raved, texted and called about the dough, we knew we’d found the winner,” says Brooke.
Equally impressive are the house-made dipping sauces. The chimichurri – a rich, vibrant green sauce from Argentina – is a must-try, as is the Chilean equivalent pebre, made with tomato, onion, garlic and coriander with a kick of heat.
Beyond empanadas, expect cold-pressed juices, barista-made coffee and alfajores, a traditional dulce de leche cookie-cake hybrid, from Temptation Alfajores.
“Temptation is owned by an Argentinian couple who supply local shops. We feel so lucky to work with another South American small business and share their product with the community,” says Brooke.
After a whirlwind start, where Brooke and Axel underestimated demand and had to scramble and purchase a second oven after selling out quickly on day one, the duo is already thinking ahead. “We’re working hard to ensure we are fully stocked up [and to] reduce wait times. [We] hope to offer catering and pre-ordering later this winter,” says Brooke. Frozen empanadas to cook and eat at home are also in the works.
“We never expected Pinos to be so [popular] so soon,” she says. “It’s a ‘pinch me’ moment to wake up each day and see what we’ve made with our minds and hands, as well as the support of some wonderful friends and family who were willing to work in exchange for empanadas.”
Pinos Empanadas
137 Rokeby Road, Subiaco
(08) 6256 0083
Hours:
Tues to Fri 8am–2pm
Sat 9am–2pm
Sun & Mon closed
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