Perth’s sandwich scene has come a long way over the last few years, thanks to the bar-raising efforts of Deli’s Continental, Peggy’s and Oh So Deli. Bagels, on the other hand, stayed largely under the radar until Mount Lawley delicatessen Bagel O’s opened in November 2022, quickly attracting crowds that spilled out the door until the last bagel was sold. Months on, little has changed.

The Bagel O’s concept came to owner Shahryar Tehrani in 2015 while he was visiting his mum in Los Angeles. “We were having a coffee and a truck pulled up called the Yeastie Boys,” Tehrani tells Broadsheet. “They had such great energy, a great vibe, and they turned the standard bagel that I’d had for many years into a great sandwich. I wanted to create a place [like that].”

Tehrani, whose background is in retail, closed the denim business he’d been running for six years and started making bagels. Alongside chef Tristan Crook, venue manager Jonathan Alexander and baker Nathan Alexander, his goal was to create a bagel that was “chewy on the outside and soft on the inside, so [it] keeps together”.

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Bagel O’s is a slick operation with fast, friendly service, meaning the ever-present queue moves quickly. And the bagels well and truly live up to the hype, with stacked fillings including hand-made meatballs and chicken parm. (Insider tip: ask your server to “make it heavy” and they’ll add an additional hash brown.)

The breakfast-y Bronsalini with local bacon, spring-onion cream cheese, fried egg, hash brown and chilli honey is a crowd favourite, and the house-cured lox sells out daily. Even the heftier options start rolling out the door at 8am.

Where possible, Bagel O’s is keeping things in-house, producing not just the bagels but the pickles, flavoured cream cheese, jam and “everything” seasoning. The cookies and (exceptional) homemade glazed doughnuts are well worth your money, as are the pastrami and turkey sandwiches on house-baked rye.

Coffee is a large part of the Bagel O’s experience, with beans from Osborne Park roaster Micrology and nitro cold brew on tap.

A quick look at the crowds and it’s no wonder talk has turned to expansion, but Tehrani is determined not to rush things. “We’re looking at taking the baking out of the venue, and if we do that then there might be another small pop-up site,” he says. “But I don’t want to jump too far ahead [or] jeopardise the customer experience.”

Bagel O’s
670 Beaufort Street, Mount Lawley

Hours:
Wed to Sun 8am–2pm (or until sold out)

@bagel_os