Fun in the sun: that’s the name of the game at Super Glou, the Commune Wine Store crew’s pop-up restaurant that springs into life this week. Taking over Victoria Park’s Modus Coffee on Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday evenings throughout November, Super Glou is an ode to the pleasures of glou glou wines: young, thirst-quenching and usually lower-alcohol wines that are made with drink-now enjoyment in mind. (The name, incidentally, is a reference to the “glou glou glou” sound a bottle of wine makes when it’s being drunk enthusiastically.)
On paper, Super Glou certainly looks well-positioned to deliver on the al fresco good times. The warming weather seems conducive to outdoor wining and dining. Team Commune has been quietly stashing prized bottles over the past few years for such an occasion. And Modus has plenty of perches to admire the sunset over Albany Highway. Best of all, Super Glou has also secured the services of young gun Richard Overbye, one of the city’s most promising cooking talents.
After coming up at Perth’s legendary Restaurant Amuse, Overbye sharpened his skills at Oslo’s Michelin three-star restaurant Maaemo as well as Melbourne fine-diner Amaru before returning to Perth in early 2022. Since then, he’s popped up around town – often by the side of fellow Amuse alum Matt Sartori – bringing his technical, layered and delicious cooking to venues such as Wines of While and Tiny’s. Ahead of his month-long residency, we chat to the accomplished chef about what guests can expect.
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What’s on the menu at Super Glou, friend?
We just want people to have a great time in the sun. It’s going to be my food and flavours, but just pared back. I want to keep it as relaxed as possible. I’ll be leaning into that [classic London restaurant] St John vibe as well as what they’re doing at places like Melbourne wine bar Clover. The dishes will be quite simple and tasty but lean pretty heavily on produce. It’ll be a small menu – four entrees, a couple of mains plus two desserts – and it’ll change depending on what’s available. That’s the beauty of having a small menu. You can chop and change and do small amounts of things. I’m looking forward to bringing together a lot of different producers I enjoy working with.
Sounds tasty. What sort of dishes can we expect?
There’ll be a roasted fish of the day with a preserved Meyer lemon butter melting on top, plus a potato dumpling that will be pan-fried so it’s crispy on the bottom and sitting in a sauce made from Cambray Farmhouse Gold cheese. It’ll be simple, but rich and delicious. I want to highlight the cheese more than anything. There’ll also be these goat chops that will be marinated in buttermilk, crumbed and pan-fried. I’ll dust it with a dehydrated Goan curry paste so it’s almost going to be like a curried goat schnitzel kind of thing. It’s something a bit different. I love working with those flavours at home but it’s rare that I bring them to an event, so I thought this would be a good opportunity to do something like that.
As well as being a gun chef, you’re also an enthusiastic gardener. What sort of influence will the Overbye garden have on your menu?
I planted some Chinese pink celery at home but went away for a week. By the time I came back, it had bolted and there were loads of flowers, so I collected the flowers, dried them out and made a celery-flower butter that I’m serving with fresh snails from South West Snails, almost like a play on that snails with Pernod garlic butter kind of thing. I’ll cook the snails, stuff them back in the shell with butter and then just blast them in the oven. I’ll go back to the garden next week and see what’s good and go from there. I’m just taking everything on a week-by-week basis. I have an idea of what’s coming up, but again, I might turn up and everything’s bolted and completely different. Saying that, it does mean it’s an ingredient I wouldn’t normally get to work with. Being able to utilise every part of the plant is a rare treat you really only get to do if you’re growing your own ingredients.
Super Glou will pop up at Modus Coffee Victoria Park (5/660 Albany Highway, Victoria Park) on Thursday November 2 and will run Thursday to Sunday evenings from 5:30pm throughout November. Reservations are available online with a limited number of walk-ins accepted each night.