I Can't Stop Thinking About: Yiamas’s Warm White Beans

Side dishes are so often overlooked, and I reckon that’s a damn shame. For many they are merely the purgatory that follows the menu’s mains; a waste of money and appetite that is always the bridesmaid, never the bride – never a priority.

I’m not saying that all sides deserve the spotlight. I’ve regretfully ordered limp bowls of lettuce that go untouched; uninspiring green beans that leave much to be desired; and delicious (but miniscule) baskets of fries. But if you’ve soured on sides, there is one dish that I can confidently claim will single-handedly change your mind: the warm white beans from Yiamas, Subiaco’s Greek restaurant that’s been nailing Ancient Greek-inspired cuisine and open-fire cooking since early 2023.

After practically licking the bowl clean on my first visit to Yiamas with friends, I came back solo on a uncharacteristically cool Monday evening in May to enjoy the warming bowl of beans all to myself.

Executive chef Justin Scarvaci’s fastidiousness is evident in this perfected plate. Creamy, unassuming and exciting, it’s a superbly executed side that will demand the attention of the table – no small feat when you consider that, other than a sprinkling of sumac adding a touch of tang and a crimson hue, it's almost entirely beige in colour.

Scratch the sumac-topped surface to find a comforting quantity of warm white beans joined by salted onion and grated hard-boiled eggs. Dig a little deeper and you’ll eventually uncover a handful of black olives, an unexpected yet welcome salty surprise adding dramatic black to the off-white medley of proteins.

Despite a raised eyebrow from the waitstaff – “are you sure you don’t want some potatoes or something to go with it?” – this is one side that can rightfully take centre stage.

A seat on Yiamas’s heated terrace, a glass of Grecian wine and one bowl of beans per person? Now that’s my recipe for a perfect winter night.

@yiamas.perth