Side dishes are so often overlooked, and I reckon that’s a damn shame. For many they are merely the purgatory that follows the menu’s mains; a waste of money and appetite that is always the bridesmaid, never the bride – never a priority.

I’m not saying that all sides deserve the spotlight. I’ve regretfully ordered limp bowls of lettuce that go untouched; uninspiring green beans that leave much to be desired; and delicious (but miniscule) baskets of fries. But if you’ve soured on sides, there is one dish that I can confidently claim will single-handedly change your mind: the warm white beans from Yiamas, Subiaco’s Greek restaurant that’s been nailing Ancient Greek-inspired cuisine and open-fire cooking since early 2023.

After practically licking the bowl clean on my first visit to Yiamas with friends, I came back solo on a uncharacteristically cool Monday evening in May to enjoy the warming bowl of beans all to myself.

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Executive chef Justin Scarvaci’s fastidiousness is evident in this perfected plate. Creamy, unassuming and exciting, it’s a superbly executed side that will demand the attention of the table – no small feat when you consider that, other than a sprinkling of sumac adding a touch of tang and a crimson hue, it's almost entirely beige in colour.

Scratch the sumac-topped surface to find a comforting quantity of warm white beans joined by salted onion and grated hard-boiled eggs. Dig a little deeper and you’ll eventually uncover a handful of black olives, an unexpected yet welcome salty surprise adding dramatic black to the off-white medley of proteins.

Despite a raised eyebrow from the waitstaff – “are you sure you don’t want some potatoes or something to go with it?” – this is one side that can rightfully take centre stage.

A seat on Yiamas’s heated terrace, a glass of Grecian wine and one bowl of beans per person? Now that’s my recipe for a perfect winter night.