Four years ago, on a winter night in August, I discovered Le Rebelle’s duck confit with bearnaise, and now I know what my death-row meal would be.

Let me set the scene. I’m at dinner with a friend, trying out the new place in town. The wine is flowing freely and before we know it we’re clinking glasses and giggling. Each entree is met with adoration. Then the glazed Wagin duck frites and bearnaise arrives. It’s like the scene in Pulp Fiction when Vincent opens the briefcase and is bathed in a golden glow. Except instead of two hitmen we are diners armed only with cutlery. And half drunk on cabernet.

Duck is an intimidating protein and one that home cooks often shy away from, but Le Rebelle owner-operators Liam and Sara Atkinson are brave. Ducks arrive every Thursday and are immediately broken down, brined and hung for 10 days. Then they’re confit in their own fat, glazed with duck l’orange sauce and roasted. The bearnaise is made à la minute (to the minute) at 5pm every day from a 20-year-old recipe.

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All this preparation leaves you with tender and succulent duck. By hanging the bird moisture is drawn out of the skin which leads to a satisfying crispness when roasted. The meat verges on rare and the rich savoury flavours of the duck clings to your palate until the bearnaise swoops in and gives you that hint of acidity you didn't know you needed. Then there’s the fries – perfect shoestring fries seasoned with allspice salt.

Every year before the mayhem of the Christmas break I book a table at Le Rebelle and order the duck confit. It wipes the slate clean and refreshes my soul for the few weeks ahead. Bring on the extended family, the hangovers and the always disappointing NYE celebrations. I know I’ll be okay – because I’ve had the duck.