It’s been an interesting 15 months for the team at Heritage, the new name of Heritage Wine Bar on St Georges Terrace.
There was last March’s lockdown, of course, closely followed by Heritage’s lockdown-inspired pivot to cook-at-home delivery boxes. Next came being the prototype restaurant to put Brookfield Place’s glasshouse private dining rooms through their paces. Then there was the changeover of head chefs in November, a month out from the traditionally heaving festive season. (More on that later).
The latest change at Edward Wolkowinski’s house of good food and drink is a new wine store that allows guests to take a little bit of Heritage home with them.
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“Wine has always been at the heart of everything we do at Heritage,” says Wolkowinski. “The new wine store showcases some amazing wines from all around the world, focusing specifically on chardonnay, pinot noir and sparkling wine.”
Wolkowinski and co have annexed part of the dining room to build the dedicated wine store. While much of the space is given over to fridges and shelving, a communal table sits in the middle of the room and is on-hand for hosted tastings. (The new space, though, is a dedicated wine store rather than an enoteca-style set-up like that found at Lalla Rookh Wine Store or Besk that allows customers to choose a bottle and pay a corkage fee to drink it on the premises).
As mentioned previously, the other major change at Heritage is the appointment of new head chef Gordon Kahle after the departure of Matthew Carulei. Hailing from Vancouver, Canada, Kahle is a journeyman chef with a CV that includes time at establishments such as Old Faithful, Cantina 663 and his own venue, Cook & Mason in East Freo. Kahle’s penchant for robust cooking is evident in a menu that features the classic – chicken and rabbit terrines, a fines herbs butter to accompany the steak – alongside surprising dish accents such as salted plum and chicharron.
“I like flavour,” says Kahle. “That’s also why I don’t like wasting stuff because it just seems like free flavour. It’s not about, ‘How many things can I do to a particular ingredient?’ but, if you can do it, reinforcing its flavour.”
West Australian ingredients remain a key theme of Kahle’s cooking (Kahle: “Coming from Vancouver, we were always taught about hyper-locality so I can never go away from it. I just stop saying it now.”). Produce from suppliers such as Fins and Warren Grange are among what’s used in the Heritage kitchen.
Heritage Wine Store
131 St Georges Terrace, Perth
Tue to Sat 12pm–10pm