When Albee Huong and head chef KokHau Chee opened Wang Xiang Noodle Perth in Willetton in late 2024, they could never have thought they’d soon be dishing out nearly 400 bowls a day to satiate the ravenous appetites of both homesick East Malaysians and Perth’s noodle-obsessed community.

Chee’s family opened Wang Xiang a decade ago in Malaysia, serving hearty bowls of sang nyuk mian, a classic in his hometown of Miri. In the years since, the family business has stretched from the shores of Sabah to Sarawak, down to Johor and now, Perth.

Translated from Hakka, sang nyuk mian simply means “pork noodles” but that simple description fails to do it justice. You’d miss the smooth pork slices, liver and intestines – true head-to-tail pork dining – all fanned out beautifully on a bed of noodles. You’d miss the joy that comes from choosing your favourite noodle, either mee (yellow egg noodles), bee hoon (rice vermicelli) or kuey tiaw (flat rice noodles), dragging each strand through the light broth and ending each spoonful with a satisfying smack of lips. You wouldn’t be able to capture the paper-thin pork slices which remain inexplicably tender.

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So how does Chee bring the comfort of Miri, over 4000 kilometres away, to Perth? The secret is the pork broth, made of pork bones gently simmered in water for hours. “We go through about two to three kilos of pork bones per day,” estimates Chee. And as is expected in Malaysia, it’s all topped with a generous serving of liver and intestines. “And the pork lard,” adds Huong, referring to the little golden nuggets of fried pork lard that add a delicate crunch to the noodles. “That’s what reminds me of noodles back home.”

Wang Xiang also boasts another East Malaysian classic: kolok mee (also known as kolo mee), which comes with a side of Wang Xiang’s signature pork broth. It’s a bowl of your choice of noodles, slathered in a dark brown, molasses-like sauce that clings to each strand. Huong explains that Wang Xiang’s kolok mee leans towards Sabah rather than neighbouring Sarawak – as the sauce is darker (thanks to the soy sauce and soy sauce caramel), lending a more salty-sweet profile rather than a savoury one. “It’s got a bit more sauce,” says Huong, “and lots of fried shallots.”

For the rice lovers, the menu boasts a chicken rice dish from Chee’s grandfather’s family recipe. While the tenderness of the chicken speaks of a traditional technique that’s been passed down through generations, Huong and Chee aren’t afraid to embrace the contemporary. The drinks menu boasts a hor ka sai, which is a cup of kopi (dark coffee) evaporated milk and Milo, which is popular in Malaysian kopitiams.

While the menu is simple, Chee and Huong also have a surprise hit. “The blended chilli sauce,” Huong says with a laugh. “I think it’s because we use a lot of very hot small chillies … people like the spice.” The chilli sauce is free. It sits on top of the self-service station with its eye-catching orange colour hiding a dropkick heat that’ll bring a smile to your lips and a prick of tears to your eyes.

Be prepared to queue.

Wang Xiang Noodle Perth 万香生肉面
43B Burrendah Boulevard, Willetton
No phone

Hours:
Mon 10.30am–2pm, 5pm–8pm
Tues closed
Wed to Sun 10.30am–2pm, 5pm–8pm

@wangxiangnoodle_perth