Where Chefs Eat: Hearth's Brian Cole Says This “Modern African” Spot Serves Some of Perth's Best Dishes

It took Brian Cole seven years to reach Western Australia, via a refugee program that took him first to Ghana from his birth country of Sierra Leone. He started his hospitality career here at just 16 years of age, working his way up through Crown and Como the Treasury, before taking over as chef de cuisine at Hearth in 2021.

At the Ritz-Carlton’s showpiece restaurant on Elizabeth Quay, he now champions WA produce and native ingredients, presiding over founding chef Jed Gerrard’s custom two-metre grill and smoker, fed with local jarrah and raspberry wattle.

Here’s where the renowned chef is eating and drinking around Perth right now. 

Favourite dish at Hearth

“Our Manjimup marron dish. It’s served with a black rice risotto and seasoned with marron-head cream. It’s also got burnt lemon aspen gel, finger lime and roasted marron-shell oil. It’s a favourite because we use all parts of the marron, and it has a deep, smoky, rich flavour from the marron-head cream, acidity from lemon aspen and finger lime, and the intense taste of the roasted shell oil.”

The best thing you’ve eaten in Perth this year (so far)

“I would have to say the gnocchi at Si Paradiso. It was so pillowy, stuffed with cheese and some grilled mushrooms. Simple but absolutely delicious.”

Your go-to for a quick takeaway

“Angelwood Pies. Those are some of the most incredible pies I have ever had. The pastry is next level, and the fillings are always interesting and delicious.”

Special-occasion restaurant

“Balthazar. It’s an incredible venue – a very intimate setting with food and service to match.”

Bucket-list restaurant

“I think my first choice would be Akoko in London, quickly followed by Ikoyi. I’m very inspired by what they do and would love to experience it.”

For a long lunch

“The Meat & Wine Co, South Perth. The food, atmosphere and service is just next level. And the location is amazing, right by the water with views of the Perth skyline.”

Go-to bakery

“Last Crumb Cake Co. I love their savoury dishes as well as the sweet.”

A hidden gem

“Peasants Paradice. A modern African restaurant serving some of the most unique and delicious food. Good spice and great atmosphere. It’s a one-man show – Dwight [Alexander] is doing incredible things there. I love going in, and more people should be getting in there asap.”

Date-night spot

“Twenty Seats Restaurant. Such great little venue. Amazing food, incredible service and an impeccable wine list.”

Best bread

“Not to sound biased, but our bread at Hearth is the best restaurant bread. I’ve tried many different styles of bread from many restaurants, and our triple-barley sourdough wins every time. Baked fresh in-house daily, can’t go wrong. Plus, when paired with our smoke butter and native five-spice dukkah, it’s just amazing.”

Favourite ice-cream

“I am quite fond of Pietro Gelateria. My daughter and I always stop by when we get a chance, or if she’s been very good.”