7 To Try: The Best Malaysian Restaurants in Perth

Malaysian food thrives in Perth’s suburbs. That’s thanks to waves of migration dating back to the 1880s, when Malaysians were drawn to Broome to work in the booming (but dangerous) pearling and trepanging (sea cucumber collection) industries. The Colombo Plan of 1950 saw an influx of Malaysian students move to Australia, and in 1973 the Whitlam government’s renunciation of the White Australia policy enabled more migration from across Asia.

Those waves have seen Malaysia’s cultures and cuisines seep into Perth’s culinary scene. Now there are spots to take you right through the day, from kopitiams (coffee shops) for breakfast to family-run diners with char kway teow, nasi lemak and other hawker-style favourites. Regional specialties are on full display, too. That means you don’t need to buy a plane ticket to Sarawak for its famous laksa (Anthony Bourdain’s favourite breakfast). Or endure traffic jams in Kuala Lumpur for char kway teow tinged with wok hei. Here’s where to find Malaysia’s culinary hits across Perth, whether that’s a sweet teh tarik, superb chicken rice or roti for the road.

Bull Creek Hawker, Bull Creek

For decades, this suburban powerhouse has dished out nostalgic favourites to the local Chinese-Malaysian community. But all are welcome at this compact spot, which is run by the same Malaccan family behind Enak Kopitiam. Its no-frills dining area and rapid-fire service let the traditional dishes sing. The classic fried char kway teow is among Perth’s best, infused with smoky wok hei. For something smoother, get the fried hor fun with egg sauce (wat tan hor) – silky noodles in a velvety egg sauce – or ask for the yin yong hor fun for a combo of flat kway teow and thin vermicelli noodles. The popular three-meat rice, meanwhile, combines a hefty plank of chicken with crackling roast pork and char siu (barbeque pork). You’ll want to get in early – the tables fill out often, whether it's a summer day or a rare windy evening.

Shop 16/118 Parry Ave, Bull Creek
bullcreekhawker.com.au
@bullcreekhawker

KCH, North Perth

KCH pays homage to owner-chef Calvin Chong’s (Bread in Common, Petition Kitchen) hometown of Kuching, Sarawak. Chong and his uncle Kang Seng (“Gan”) Gan bring dishes from the region into sharp focus. That starts with the laksa, a Sarawak breakfast staple that’s famously spiced up with sambal belacan. Its rust-orange broth brims with rice noodles, prawns, shredded chicken, bean sprouts, ribbons of egg and coriander. Another signature is the smoky char kway teow, with sweet slices of lap cheong (pork sausage) hidden among the noodles, bean sprouts and spring onion. You can order some of Chong’s family recipes too, including his grandma’s ngoh hiang (meat roll) with tart pickles, and his mum’s chicken curry, which is brightened with makrut lime and topped with crispy thin potato chips.

Unit 41/10 Angove St, North Perth
thekch.com.au
@the.kch

Two Hands Noodle Shop, Como

Its dining room (and prices) might be small, but this low-key restaurant turns out comforting, big-flavoured examples of East Malaysian cooking. Its menu represents two Southern Chinese language groups that migrated to Malaysia in the early 1900s: the Foochow food of Sibu that owner Joseph Lau grew up with, and the Hokkien-style cooking synonymous with Kuching, Sarawak’s capital city. But the signature here is Sarawak-style noodles: springy and delicious things made on-site. On particularly busy days, Lau might make extra noodles during service (it’s in the name – everything here requires both hands to make). As far as other dishes go, the thick-cut pan mian are a pleasure to eat; the plus-sized baos are pillowy and dense; and the stir-fried rice rolls have smoke and savour for days.

4/2 Downey Drive, Como
@two_handsnoodleshop

Enak Kopitiam, Willetton

A packed menu of Malaysian favourites brings crowds to Enak Kopitiam, a humble hawker-style spot on an otherwise sleepy corner. Early on, folks queue for its Malaysian breakfast set, a classic combo of boiled eggs, kaya (coconut jam) toast and drinks like teh tarik (frothy condensed-milk tea) or kopi (coffee). Lunchtime means affordable mainstays like roast duck noodles, an impressive serving of crispy roast duck with springy noodles and an umami-laden broth. The lor mee, meanwhile, sees egg noodles suspended in a thick, spicy and aromatic soy-sauce gravy with boiled egg and tofu balancing out the vinegary notes. Dessert is covered, too. Grab extra self-serve cutlery for the share-friendly ais kacang (“bean ice”), a mountain of shaved ice filled with red bean and jelly. Or head up to the glass counter to choose from the rotating range of kuih, sweet dessert morsels made of rice flour. You might find the pandan-flavoured serimuka, or the tortoise shell-like ang koo with its creamy mung bean centre. Share them here or carry a few home for later.

Shop 11, 61 Apsley Road, Willetton
enakkopitiam.business.site

Karache by Sani, Perth

Daily lunch-hour queues testify to the high quality food here. Expats and those in the know flock to its colourful bain-marie set-up, which offers vibrant new dishes each visit. While the options rotate daily, the beef rendang – fall-off-the-bone beef with a deep, rich coconut flavour – is a must. Other memorable dishes have included ayam masala (chicken curry), ikan bakar (barbequed fish) and lamb shanks. Pile your plate high with meat, seafood and veg combos, alongside fluffy white rice or spiced biryani. Then mop it up with a chewy sheet of roti telur, the fried-egg-filled lesser-known cousin of roti canai, which holds enough structure to scoop up your dal or curry. After lunch, the teh tarik and assortment of kuih offer a sweet finish – and are perfect to take home or to the office.

124 Murray St, Perth
@karachebysani

Ipoh Garden, Myaree

Ipoh Garden was one of Perth’s first regional Malaysian restaurants. In 2001, owners Alice and Richard Thum opened its first iteration in Applecross after migrating to Perth from Ipoh, the capital of Perak state in north-west Malaysia. Now in Hulme Court, Ipoh Garden doesn’t limit itself to the borders of one region. Alongside Ipoh-style hor fun, it’s become known for its smoky char kway teow and wat tan hor. Other regional specialties include a coconut-laden Penang-style white curry laksa (sweeter than the region’s more familiar assam laksa) and Hokkien lam mee, egg noodles served in a gravy made with prawns and chicken. The chicken rice is balanced to perfection: the poached chicken is supple alongside the aromatic rice and rounded out with a kick of vinegary chilli sauce. Ipoh Garden is a true family affair, with comforting dishes and warm service that welcomes you each time you return.

44 Hulme Court, Myaree
@ipohgardenrestaurant

Tak Chee House, Northbridge

Dog-eared menus. Melamine plates. A sole fridge that whirrs loudly. Tak Chee House is your typical hawker spot, where bare basics are the trade-off for authentic Penang-style fare. But we’ll forgive a lot for some of Perth’s best Hainanese chicken rice. Served on a bed of bean shoots with rice and a cup of clear broth, it’s Malaysian comfort food at its best. Other favourites include curry laksa, roti and kway teow. The wait crew asks all the important questions, such as which part of the chicken you’d prefer, your chilli tolerance and whether you’ll use chopsticks or a fork. Those little things count. And that’s why it’s packed for lunch and dinner, no matter what day of the week.

1/364 William Street, Perth

Honourable Mentions

We can’t forget Perth’s Ikhwan Cafe, known for its weekly “pay-as-you-wish” buffet. Come and pile your plate high with rice, curries, meats and sweets – and pick a number. (It gets extra kudos for its approach to curbing food waste: it charges you for how much food you leave on the plate.) Standout staples have included ikan goreng, egg rendang, Hong Kong-style char kway teow and spicy chicken curry.

Across The Causeway, Albany Highway is a hub for excellent Malaysian food. But Sedap Place stands out with its tender beef rendang and nasi lemak (from a classic size to a larger share-plate style) – all Halal-certified.

And further south, Lepak Kopitiam Bateman rises early for breakfast: think soft-boiled eggs, roti bakar (toasted bread) and spreads ranging from kaya to Nutella. While you’re in the area, stop at Bateman Chinese Eating House. The no-frills joint is the keeper of an open secret: its fish head mee hoon soup and fish head curry laksa are among the most pungent, delicious and rich bowls of noodles you’ll find in Perth.

Additional reporting by Max Veenhuyzen and Holly Bodeker-Smith.