The waters of Western Australia have a justified reputation for world-class fresh seafood. A prime example is the Leeuwin Coast Albany rock oyster, a firm local favourite that’s growing in popularity on a national level.

Best of all, this specific oyster will enjoy a longer season this year, extending from early November all the way through late April. “We wait throughout the cooler months for our own WA oysters to be ready to harvest,” says Melissa Palinkas, chef and owner of both Young George and Ethos Deli & Dining Room in East Fremantle. “People are always asking when the Albany rocks are coming back. This year we’re able to have them on the menu right through to April, giving people more opportunities to enjoy them.”

These bivalves are grown in the picturesque beachside city perched at the state’s southern tip, and are at their peak when the waters around Albany are warmer. Directly north-east of Albany’s centre sits Oyster Harbour, a generous inlet where the seawater from the Southern Ocean meets the river waters of the King and Kalgan rivers. This creates a 45,000-square-kilometre catchment perfect for raising the oysters.

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“I’ve been fortunate enough to go out to the farm several times,” Palinkas says. “It’s so pristine. It’s an inlet where the rivers meet the sea, which sets our Albany rock oysters apart from other oysters. The oysters grow under the water, moving with the tide, and are then regularly flipped to sit on top of the water. The nutrients from the seagrass rich estuarine water feed the oysters and help them grow.”

That perfect positioning also gives Albany rock oysters their special flavour. “That’s encapsulated in the taste,” says Palinkas. “It’s what they’re feeding on around the harbour, and what’s in the water.”

Palinkas eagerly selects her favourite oysters each season – the cream of the marine crop. She’s always looking for a plump, creamy oyster with a nice frill around the outside. The size should be a good mouthful, but not overly large.

Young George serves oysters regularly, and this season Palinkas plans to serve them for $2.50 each during happy hour. Her team has developed two new condiments for it: a house-made plum vinegar mignonette with Davidson’s plum and finger lime, and a chipotle and brown vinegar marinade. “When you get that combination with a fresh oyster, it’s just a sensational flavour.”

She also plans to serve a “small, snacky oyster po boy” at Ethos across the entire season, but apart from the novel sandwich, she advises trying Albany rock oysters raw.

“I think natural is the way forward,” she says, “because you get the real flavour of the oyster. Because they come in live, they’re still filled with seawater. When you open them up, they’re at their most pristine. They’re just delicious like that.”

As for what pairs best with them, Palinkas often reaches for a glass of bubbly from the Great Southern wine region, which encompasses Albany and the surrounding area of southern Western Australia. She also loves how well chardonnay and oysters go together – just make sure it’s something light that won’t overpower the oyster’s delicate briny flavours.

It’s not just the standout taste and breezy versatility that Palinkas values in Albany rock oysters. Their geographical proximity to Perth and Fremantle means that they don’t rack up too many air miles, aligning with her long-time focus on sustainability. She has been working with premium WA shellfish grower Leeuwin Coast for three years, ensuring her seafood is as local as it is delicious.

That’s definitely part of their appeal, as is the oysters’ indelible connection to where they were grown. As more people across Australia discover the distinctive beauty of Western Australian seafood, Albany rock oysters will continue to flourish.

“I only buy produce that has low food miles on it, so it’s all about provenance here,” Palinkas says. And her customers agree: “People are looking out for the season and wanting something local that’s been grown nearby. People seek them out.”

This article is produced by Broadsheet in partnership with Harvest Road.