Ku Dining doesn't consider itself a fine-dining establishment.

Sure, the kitchen might go to the effort of scouring Western Australia for premium produce; its chefs might have cooked at some of the city’s most revered fine diners including Restaurant Amuse, Star Anise and Print Hall, and the menu prices – which absolutely match the quality of the cooking – make Ku more of a special occasion prospect than somewhere you might drop in on a Tuesday night after work. But still, it's more fun than its peers.

Following the lead of Mejekawi – the polished yet easy-going dining room at the original Ku De Ta in Bali – the menu that borrows liberally from around the world. Wagin duck gets roasted Chinese style; the “lacquered” skin rendered crisp and shiny with bird accompanied by mandarin and spice (the same farm, incidentally, also supplies the duck eggs that get rendered into a Japanese egg custard chawanmushi topped with pippies and XO sauce, possibly the single best thing to order in the entire complex). The mutton (dry-aged) is simply roasted and served with vegetables and green sauce, putting the delicious savour of aged sheep front and centre. Elsewhere, wattle-seed chips put an Australian spin on beef tartare, while marron gets served with a creamy saltbush-spiked aioli.

Rather than changing seasonally, individual dishes are constantly tweaked to keep things interesting for both regular diners and the kitchen.

London-based architect Perparim Rama is behind the room gold carvings in the black tabletops and gold tubes, and burnt timber nubbins that protrude from the ceiling like fancy stalactites, work at diffusing any sense of stuffiness. An open kitchen beats at the literal and figurative heart of the room.

Updated: September 6th, 2019

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