After 14 years away, renowned Australian chef and cookbook author David Thompson returned to Australia, bringing his acclaimed Thai street food with him.
Buried beneath the rubble of the respectfully restored State Treasury building, Long Chim Perth – its sister restaurant is in Singapore – brings Bangkok buzz, grit and soul to the heart of the CBD.
The vaulted cellar is festooned with the works of Thai graffiti artists and floating metal fence work. Authenticity is what it’s all about – so much so Thompson, unable to source Australian produce with the same flavour profiles, imports his pastes and potions from his kitchen in Bangkok.
The semi-open scullery recreates traditional dishes that Thompson discovered during his many years in the Thai capital. Diners can enjoy a line-up of the favourites, done differently, such as pad thai made with house-dried prawns, and a red curry of duck finished with freshly made coconut cream.
Less familiar will be the charred noodles in a gooey gravy of pork and yellow beans. To finish, banana roti is an easy choice. Durian ice cream is for the more daring. The food here has not been Westernised. Expect chilli, and lots of it.
A short wine list provides some relief from the spice, including a Thai drop for something a bit different.
A separate bar and courtyard serves the drinks crowd with Thai-inspired cocktails and snacks until late. Visit the quad after dark to watch the urban murals come to life.