Some tables have lazy Susans and the menu is intimidatingly long. That’s where the similarities between Silks and average Chinese dining end.

The restaurant makes every cent of its $10 million fit-out apparent. Plates are edged with gold detailing. Giant vases dominate the centre of the dining room. Leather-bound menus are crafted to resemble Chinese gates. Wait staff deliver service as immaculate as their tailored uniforms.

Chef Pat Cheong backs up the visual flair with culinary expertise. Cheong is the eighth member of his family, lucky in Chinese culture, but the execution here relies on more than chance. Silks’ menu showcases Cantonese and multi-regional dishes with a focus on WA produce.

Dumplings are uniformly excellent and artfully presented. Braised pork belly with black truffle sauce is the pick of the mains and may challenge diners used to the crisp skin of Western cooking. Its rich sauce and silky texture are well worth taking a chance on.

The dessert menu melds Pan-Asian flavours with familiar techniques. Think black sesame mousse, Chinese-tea ice cream, sesame pudding and coconut gel.

Drinks vary from traditional teas and Chinese spirits to local and international beers. The wine list hops across Australia, Europe and Asia, with some pricing applicable only to the casino’s high rollers.

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Updated: November 28th, 2018

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