King Somm has an easy-going attitude, starting with the impressive range of wines available to drink in and take away. Factor in the tight but far-reaching beer range and you’re looking at a neighbourhood bar that’s thinks – and drinks – big.

There's a lot to like here. There’s the uncluttered aesthetic that underscores the timeless good looks of the heritage-listed building the venue is in. The collective CV of the floor staff, which includes Colleen Carney (a five-year veteran of Duende and bar manager Mariusz Ganski (ex-Must Winebar The warmth of the soundtrack, all vintage speakers and tube-amp-driven. Best of all, though, is the space’s instant sense of warmth and familiarity. First-time visitors to this former billiard hall would be excused for assuming King Somm has been around for far longer than it has been.

King Somm’s other big draw is its in-house pizzeria, Jane Dough Pizza (which also offers take away). Run by veteran Perth chef Ben Atkinson (Meat Candy, Ace Pizza, The Old Crow), Jane Dough gets a lot of the pizza basics right. Slow-fermented dough made with pizza flour. The use of San Marazano tomatoes and fior di latte cheese. A wood-burning Zesti oven.

The toppings are sparse and feature Mediterranean-inspired combinations such as pork and fennel sausage, roast onions and salsa verde. And anchovies with roasted capsicum and salmoriglio (a garlicky dressing from Italy’s south). The toppings aren’t the only surprise. The small plates feature a surprising attention to the detail: favourites include the lamb ribs with saffron yoghurt and fish crudo with nectarine and black sesame.

Updated: April 9th, 2019

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