From Gisborne to Te Kaha: A Guide to Road Tripping Along New Zealand’s East Cape

State Highway 35 twists and turns for almost 350 kilometres along the East Cape, a region that includes the easternmost point of New Zealand’s North Island. It runs between Gisborne and Ōpōtiki, with stunning ocean views around most corners. If you’re holidaying here, you won’t find glitzy hotels and mega malls; this is the place for those who want the ultimate laid-back, and at times no-frills, Kiwi summer – camping on the beach, enjoying freshly caught kaimoana (seafood), waving at local kids riding horses bareback and basking in the lack of phone reception. Pack your camping and fishing gear, a good book, and, if you’re a surfer, pile in the boards for a memorable adventure.

Here, we’ve put together a four-day itinerary, but you can pick and choose your own timeline. We begin in Gisborne and end in Te Kaha but, depending on your origin and destination, the route can just as easily be reversed, shortened or lengthened.

Day one
Stock up on supplies in Gisborne. You’ll find delicious snacks, deli goods, cheeses and more at Mediterranean grocery store Vetro , and great coffee and sandwiches at Far East Coffee Co’s Awapuni Road roastery –
then cruise 45 minutes up the coast to Tolaga Bay. Kick off your day with the Cooks Cove Walkway. The track gets your legs burning, but it’s worth it for sweeping views of the coastline and the “hole in the wall” – an impressive natural archway formed in the rock. (The route is open from the start of the Labour Day weekend in late October until August 1.) Afterwards, cool off with a plunge off Tolaga Bay Wharf. Built in 1929, the 660-metre wharf is also a great spot for a 30-minute return stroll; you can watch locals fish and dive while taking in the history of the wharf, which was used for the transport of wool, livestock and general merchandise. If the wind is playing ball and the swell is on your side, the surf can also be magic here.

Your camping spot for the night is 25 minutes’ drive away at Anaura Bay Motor Camp. Set on the shore of a sweeping white sand beach, Anaura Bay is laid-back and idyllic. On balmy summer evenings, there might be children playing Marco Polo around the campsite, and heated card games among their parents. Set an early alarm to catch the sunrise.

Day two
Half an hour’s drive north, Tokomaru Bay is home to another fantastic beach. But the reason you’re stopping here is to sample an East Cape delicacy: pāua pies. Pāua are a kind of mollusc, also known as abalone, and in this case they’re blended into a creamy filling and encased in crusty pastry. Cafe 35 is the go-to local spot and you’d do well to get in early as they sell out.

Next, head to Maunga (Mount) Hikurangi, the highest non-volcanic peak on the North Island. This is a sacred place for the local Ngāti Porou iwi , who are the only people with permission to give guided tours of the maunga. You can book a 4WD daytime tour that takes you from base to summit, during which you’ll be educated on the rich history of the land, its people, and nine legendary Māori whakairo (carved sculptures) that stand on the mountain. A sunrise tour is available for early risers.

Head back to Tokomaru Bay and settle in for dinner and a room at the unpretentious and historic Te Puka Tavern. Right on the water’s edge and dating to 1873, it’s a meeting place for the community that’s often bustling with locals. [Ed’s note: while Te Puka Tavern is closed at the time of publishing this article, it’s due to reopen in December].

Day three
As you head north, check out Saint Mary’s Church in Tikitiki. The building combines a European exterior with striking interiors covered in Māori carvings and tukutuku (ornamental latticework).

Keep driving and you’ll reach Te Araroa, home to what’s thought to be New Zealand’s oldest and largest native pōhutukawa tree (and some excellent fish and chips).

Hicks Bay is 12 kilometres further along the highway and the perfect lazy afternoon spot. Get out the gas cooker and set up an umbrella at this sheltered, picturesque beach. If the winds are in your favour, long, slow waves will roll in – perfect for longboarders.

Stay at Lottin Point Motel. Lottin Point is famously one of the best fishing spots in the country for deep sea fishing, mainly snapper, and if you want to try your luck, the motel will provide you with the gear.

Day four
As the highway crests the top of the East Cape, you’ll enter the Bay of Plenty. Waihau Bay is a must-stop for any Taika Waititi junkies – it’s where the director filmed Boy , a homage to his childhood in the area. A five-minute drive north of Waihau Bay, you’ll spot Raukōkore’s Anglican church. Its form is simple but striking against the sky, framed on one side by the Raukūmara Range. Drive onwards until you reach Pacific Coast Macadamias and its Nuthouse Cafe. It’s only open in summer but its garden setting is the perfect place for a coffee, with yet another gorgeous ocean view.

State Highway 35 continues for another 83 kilometres, then the road curves on towards Rotorua, or downwards sending drivers back to Gisborne. But you only have to drive for 20 minutes from Pacific Coast Macadamias to reach Te Kaha, and Hariki Beach – a great place for a dip. A small sandy bay, soft waves and a native bush-sheltered shoreline make it a quintessential last stop.