Twenty-six-seat Dunedin restaurant Moiety only serves a degustation menu – but don’t think of it as fine dining. Opened by chef Sam Gasson and his partner Kim Underwood in 2018, Moiety’s approach takes a holistic view of sustainability – one that considers the environmental and financial benefits of having much less waste to deal with, thanks to the five-course “feed me” menu served every night.

Gasson designs his menus according to local produce availability, mostly sticking with South Island producers. His style often embraces ingredients and fermentation methods associated with Japanese or Korean cuisine; koji, miso and furikake all make appearances. Expect inventive combinations, for example: a dessert of charred sweetcorn ice-cream with tempura caramel custard. A charcoal grill adds flavour and atmosphere.

A dish is rotated off the menu every seven days, leading to a full refresh every five weeks, and there are always supplements available, such as oysters, pate and cheese. Pop in for the full experience or be welcomed for just a drink and a snack from the selection of sides. Take a seat up at the chef’s counter for an engaging experience with the kitchen staff.

Gasson and Underwood were particular about what they were looking for when they returned to Dunedin from stints in Hobart and Melbourne, and an old pub in Dunedin’s heritage warehouse precinct proved the ideal spot. Exposed brick walls, soaring ceilings and a long counter with a raw-steel benchtop add to the characterful feel.

Moiety is not a wine-pairing sort of place, which lends flexibility to the ever-changing food offerings. Expect a concise, New Zealand-focused selection, with plenty of approachable organic wines from established producers.

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Updated: April 29th, 2022

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