When Karl Bayly and Ophelia Harradine Bayly opened Roses Dining Room on Karangahape Road, the idea was that it would be ever-evolving and flexible around the rhythms of their lives as creatives, parents and in-demand caterers.
Until now, the space has had no set opening hours or menu, instead hosting regular events, residencies with chefs, winemakers and bakers, and pop-ups. For people who consider themselves “terrified of that nine-to-five situation”, as Harradine Bayly told Broadsheet last November, they’ve been busy.
This week, the couple’s heading overseas for three months and leaving Roses in the capable hands of co-owner Emil Scheffman and chef Katie Riley. Riley did a Roses residency in April and has a growing reputation for her creative, comfortable cooking style and dedicated approach.
With Peach Pit gone and Alta now closed, Karangahape Road has a gap for somewhere to have a casual drink and a bite, Harradine Bayly says. “We thought, why not mix up our offering a bit and see how it lands.”
On Thursday and Friday every week, you can pop in for a drink or stay for a meal. Bayly has compiled a distinctive wine list, highlighting independent makers from New Zealand and abroad. There’s the certified organic Zoe riesling by Central Otago’s Vita Wines, cabernet franc by Kazakhstani winemaker Oleg Yakutin of Yakutin Family Wines and Monastero Trappiste di Vitorchiano Lazio Bianco Coenobium – an incredibly low intervention wine made by nuns northeast of Rome.
There will be a “permanent happy hour”, a more affordable by-the-glass option called “wine of the week”, and a seasonal spritz that will change weekly, featuring aromatic house-made syrups (think plum, gin and lemon verbena with yuzu soda).
To eat, Riley collaborated with Bayly to create a Roses-style menu that works as snacky bites or a full meal. As they have a similar style, Riley says the process was “effortless”.
“My approach to food is generally comforting and effortless – almost like you’re at your friend’s house for dinner, but with a bit more creativity and thought-provoking elements,” she says. “Different, but not intimidating.”
Order dishes like house-made flatbread topped with creme fraiche and brown butter, with pickled rhubarb to cut through the creaminess. Slow-cooked lamb will be served with a celeriac puree and lamb jus, crusted with toasted sesame and orange zest – then finished with celeriac “angel hair” for crunch. There’s also hasselback carrots atop charcoal yoghurt and curry leaves, and brussels sprouts with radicchio, honey mustard and hazelnuts.
For dessert, there’s tapioca pudding with cardamom, a beautifully pastel pistachio ice cream and Makrut lime.
Private events will continue (with Riley cooking, instead of Bayly) and this end-of-week wine bar format will definitely be on for three months – but beyond that? “Not sure yet, wait and see,” says Harradine Bayly. “Roses just evolves as it needs to. Go enjoy it while it lasts!”
Roses Dining Room
454 Karangahape Road, Auckland CBD
Wine Bar Hours
Thurs & Fri 5pm-10pm