Sean Golding and Shepherd Elliott own six venues around Wellington. Their latest, Concord, takes its cues from European bistros of the 20th century. It’s taken up residence in the historical modernist building that was home to Wellington’s beloved Lido cafe.

Waiters in smart blue and black coats float around a lush room with velvet seats and dim, reddish lighting. The bar is the focal point, with red timber dowels hanging in the shape of a wave – a nod to the building’s signature curved awning. The decor is so theatrical it’s no surprise to learn that Golding once designed film sets.

The pair wanted to give Wellingtonians a polished dining experience without the pomp or fussy food – a bistro-luxe kind of vibe, with simple dishes done well. Entrees such as steak tartare, shrimp cocktail and duck liver pate make way for mains – eye fillet steak, eggplant schnitzel, half a roast chicken – served with bottomless fries.

Never miss a moment. Make sure you're subscribed to our newsletter today.

SUBSCRIBE NOW

Elliott, who’s also executive chef, describes the food as “luxury European bistro crossed with New York steakhouse”.

The duo has teamed up on other ventures before. Together, they own the food truck Donnie Taco and the two-hat restaurant, Shepherd. Elliott also co-owns Leeds Street Bakery, while Golding founded and owns craft-beer bar Golding’s Free Dive and is a co-owner of natural wine bar Puffin and the Intrepid Hotel.

Concord could not be more different from Shepherd, where the approach is more innovative and experimental.

Shepherd, Golding explains, is “like a chef’s restaurant’’. “At Concord, we are focused on the diners. You can’t hide with this food.’’

“It’s about execution rather than innovation,’’ he adds. “Concord is not too serious. It’s not in Wellington’s nature to have haute cuisine and be pampered. It’s finding that middle ground, so people find something special but it’s not inaccessible.’’

There’s something wonderfully nostalgic about eating half a roast chicken with fries or tucking into a shrimp cocktail followed by a Scotch fillet steak; it’s a departure from the small shared-plates dining approach so common around Wellington.

Concord’s sous-chef, Max Gnojczok, hails from Marseilles in France and runs the Concord kitchen. He’s a natural at French dishes like the shallot tarte tatin and saucisson brioché (a decadent kind of sausage roll). “Sean and I are trying to twist his French side to make him a bit more American,’’ Elliott laughs.

Part of the inspiration for the luxe fit-out – built by Golding, Elliott and a friend – came from the mid-century architecture and curving windows of the Racing Conference building itself: the wave of Concord’s bar, its sloping velvet seats. The colour palette is a mix of reds and oranges and punches of gold, with retro carpet and tasselled light shades.

If weather permits, dine al fresco. Throughout the day, dappled light filters through the deciduous trees nearby and, sitting in a Parisian bistro chair with a bowl of bottomless frites and an Aperol Spritz, you could be in Europe.

Concord
81 Victoria Street, Te Aro, Wellington 6011

Hours:
Lunch Wed to Sun 11:30am – 2pm
Dinner Wed to Sun 5pm – 11:59pm
Mon & Tues closed

concordrestaurant.co.nz
@concord_restaurant

For more great content, follow Broadsheet NZ on Facebook and Instagram.