Forget bumpy roads and hours of driving; instead, relax and explore Queensland’s Gulf Savannah on board two stylish vintage trains. The journey into Gulf Country – an ancient terrain of geological wonders with a fascinating human history in Queensland’s remote north-west – is one not often experienced by travellers, and going by train is an effortlessly comfortable way to see it.
The first stop on the six-day journey from Cairns (Gimuy) is Normanton, via coach. Then it’s time to board the first of the journey’s two historic trains: the rusty red Gulflander, which follows a track originally built to connect the once-bustling river port of Normanton with the promising goldfields of Croydon. The locals quip that the train goes from “nowhere to nowhere”, but the isolated five-hour trip takes passengers along original lines and sleepers laid in the late 1800s.
A coach transfers train travellers to Forsayth, which becomes a base for adventures to the breathtaking Cobbold Gorge and a spooky night-time tour of the supernatural kind.
After exploring Forsayth, board the sleek silver carriages of the Savannahlander – the second train of the journey and one of Australia’s great rail excursions. Passengers step into her carriages, which are almost identical to how they were in the 1960s, and head to Einasleigh, weaving past ancient sandstone hills, granite ranges and the spectacular Copperfield Gorge.
On the final night, the Savannahlander pulls in at Mount Surprise. Close by are the ancient Undara Lava Tubes, created millions of years ago by rivers of lava. The last stop on the line is the return to Gimuy; on this final leg, the so-called “silver bullet” clacks through the wet tropics with a sunset descent down the scenic Kuranda Range.
Day One: Cairns (Gimuy) to Normanton
Departing Gimuy in the morning, you’ll travel by coach to reach Normanton in time for dinner at the Gulfland Motel, 680 kilometres west of Cairns in the heart of the Gulf Savannah region. It is here that the journey truly starts as you slowly wind your way back toward Gimuy over the next several days. You’ll be greeted by a giant salmon outside the Gulfland Motel – inside is a treasure-trove of memorabilia and vintage signs, and the first pub meal of the trip.
Day Two: Normanton and Karumba
With a free day to explore, I suggest hiring a car locally to visit the nearby coastal town of Karumba. Here, the popular Sunset Tavern is open every afternoon for drinks and pub fare overlooking the mouth of the Norman River and the Gulf of Carpentaria. Crocodile and crab tours, as well as fishing charters and river cruises, are offered daily from Karumba and its serviceable port.
Day Three: Normanton to Forsayth via Croydon
Hop on board the Gulflander for the journey from “nowhere to nowhere”. The legendary 1950 railmotor known as the “tin hare” was originally built to connect the port town of Normanton with Croydon’s goldfields, and ventures through countryside that most people would never see, before hopping off for lunch at the Croydon Club Hotel. From Croydon, a two-hour coach transfer to Forsayth passes over the Gilbert River and arrives in time for dinner at Finnigan’s Rest.
Day Four: Cobbold Gorge to Forsayth
A bus transfer to Cobbold Gorge begins a day of adventure, with an included three-hour tour of the geological wonder hidden below the sandstone of the Queensland outback: the winding gorge holds a glistening stream of glassy blue water. After dark in Forsayth, an immersive, lantern-lit walking tour tells tales of local ghosts and the town’s fascinating history, before you hit the hay in the familiarity of Finnigan’s Rest again.
Day Five: Forsayth to Mount Surprise via Einasleigh
Hop on board the Savannahlander for the final full day’s rail ride with scenic stops at Einasleigh Hotel and the spectacular Copperfield Gorge, before a walking tour at Undara Lava Tubes, one of the longest tube cave systems in the world. An optional stay at Discovery Resorts Undara tonight keeps the rail theme going – its restored railway carriages provide a unique night’s rest to end the trip.
Day Six: Mount Surprise to Cairns via Almaden and Dimbulah
Hopping back on the Savannahlander in Mount Surprise, a day of travelling is broken up with lunch and afternoon tea stops in Almaden and Dimbulah before a scenic sunset meander down the Kuranda Range back to Gimuy.
This is an edited extract from Undiscovered Queensland (RRP $45), published by Hardie Grant. The book is curated by James Vodicka, a Whitsundays local, travel writer and photographer. Available now in bookstores.
