Every time I tell someone I’m going to the Gold Coast, they’ll invariably ask, “Why?” – as if a beach holiday needs justifying. But my reason is always the same: I’m homesick, want to see family, and crave soaking in the low-hanging afternoon sun as it sets over the hinterland, reflecting orange on the ocean and turning surfers into silhouettes.
Since moving to Melbourne from Queensland almost a decade ago, I’ve learned how stale people’s understanding is of the Gold Coast. Most haven’t returned since they were just tall enough for the Scooby Doo rollercoaster, or since a debaucherous schoolies trip.
With Brisbane ramping things up for the Olympics, that ambition has flowed downstream to a Gold Coast that’s more inspired than I’ve ever known it. And with its quick recovery from Ex-Tropical Cyclone Alfred, now’s the perfect time to revisit a Gold Coast that’s all grown up.
You can find some of the best travel tips and anecdotes on the Gold Coast Experience Exchange, an online portal where travellers can share their experiences for others to follow. As for my tips, here are a few of the best spots to go beyond theme parks and skyscrapers.
Currumbin
Currumbin Beach is one of the city’s most thriving beach communities. Tommy’s Italian and the Salt Mill are both popular spots for a bite, while Vikings is one of the more postcard-worthy surf clubs.
Beloved by families and lorikeets alike, Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary hosts Friday night food markets just after the bird-feeding sessions end at 4pm – you can find live music and food stalls repping Bali, Tibet and Thailand. It’s a few blocks away from where I did my first ever surf lesson at Currumbin Alley Surf School – the waves are friendly, yet challenging enough for beginners to get a taste of surfing.
Across the Pacific Motorway in Currumbin Waters, Bread Social and Fuel Bakehouse bring crowds early in the morning. Linger at cafe Refinery Coffee or at Dust Temple, a relaxing greenery-filled space that also operates as a gallery and vintage clothing store.
After dark, head to Burly Gin, a suave amber-lit cocktail bar by the namesake Burleigh gin distillery in Currumbin’s new community precinct The Warehouses. Or, return to Dust Temple around the corner, which becomes Bothy Bar on Friday nights. Accommodation in Currumbin is abundant – on the northern side of Currumbin Creek in Palm Beach is the Cheshire Cat Motel, a playfully appointed boutique accommodation.
Tarte Beach House is a popular cafe on the edge of the Thrower Drive bridge. You can grab lunch by the creek bank, then hire a paddleboard or kayak to explore its mouth. And if you keep following Currumbin Creek further upstream, you’ll find one of the most idyllic drives around.
Kirra
The city’s retro Cali-cool aesthetic takes cues from the mid-century surf culture that powered it. And few spots were as legendary as Kirra during its golden years in the ’60s and ’70s, when a strong swell made it one of the most frenzied surf breaks in the world. It was around this time that the area was disparagingly coined the “Gold Coast” after property values skyrocketed (the name stuck, obviously).
By the early 2000s, a sand-dredging operation just about buried the waves and the area fell out of the limelight. But after a series of restoration projects, it feels like Kirra is on the cusp of a new golden era: the waves have returned, and the food and drink offering has transformed.
Surf clubs have some of the coast’s best views, sometimes at the expense of food quality. But Siblings, which sits on the ground floor of Kirra Beach Surf Club, has one of the most spectacular locations around, with a fit-out and menu to match. The Siblings crew also runs Hanks down the road, serving laid-back European fare. And around the corner, find a pan-Asian feed at Billy Chow (little sibling to Monsieur Chow on Nobby Beach).
The Kirra end of the Gold Coast has rich marine life thanks to the rocky reefs and headlands, so book a snorkelling tour by Cooly Eco Adventures to swim with the turtles. And while it recently became a Surf Dive ’n Ski outpost, Kirra Surf been around for almost half a century. It’s one of the biggest board stores on this side of the world, plus it’s got apparel, snorkelling equipment and other beach necessities.
If the waves aren’t your speed, kick back at Native State Bathhouse. The new wellness space has serene cave-like baths, a steam room, infrared sauna and exercise studio. And for some shut-eye, stay at Kirra Point Holiday Apartments. With beach views from the barbeque area and a rooftop pool, it feels like staying at a friend’s apartment.
Miami and Burleigh
Burleigh Heads has been the hub of a Gold Coast beyond Surfer’s Paradise for a while now – and for good reason. The hospitality hotspot is home to top restaurants like Labart and its casual wine bar Paloma.
A lot of nightlife centres in Burleigh, with plenty of spots for a good Margarita. Justin Lane is a buzzy rooftop to clink salt-rims over a pizza and dance in the sunset. The menu at nostalgia-imbued bar Rosella’s draws inspiration from Australiana with its Blinky Bill cocktail and kangaroo burgers. And Insta-famous Burleigh Pavilion still has one of the best views around – just get there by five to beat the crowd (or visit the Pav team’s new spots Sueno and Norte in Mermaid Beach instead). A personal favourite is Black Hops, a small-batch brewery that gets creative with Queensland-grown grains, and recently released an IPA to raise funds for We Love LA wildfire relief.
While Burleigh claims the spotlight, neighbouring Miami is emerging too. Roji Cat Beer Bar gets rowdy over karaoke, and Miami Marketta houses a few options for food and drinks, with live music humming from the stage.
For lunch, grab a sandwich from Miami Subs, which one punter at Black Hops described to me as “the best fuckin’ sandwich in the whole world” (my verdict: it was great). Or roll straight in from the sand to Miami Tavern, an airy beachside pub where you can grab all the surf club favourites.
Beyond
While the Gold Coast is known – understandably – for its beaches, it’s got another side that’s arguably it’s best feature. Affectionately dubbed the “green behind the gold”, rainforest-covered hinterland to the west hides the kinds of waterfalls and walking trails that feel a world away from the bright lights of the coast.
The extinct Tweed Volcano erupted some 23 million years ago, laying down basalt soils that now support the lush Unesco-listed Gondwana Rainforests. Wind and water erosion have carved out dramatic valleys and escarpments, forming what are now national parks like Lamington and Springbrook.
O’Reilly’s Rainforest Retreat is conveniently located near multiple walking tracks, alongside a resort and spa. Tree Top Walk is an accessible walk, with nine suspension bridges, through the rainforest canopy. And don’t leave without taking the track to Morans Falls, a 4.4-kilometre return trip to a waterfall that plunges down an 80-metre cliff face.
For an overnight stay, the Sky Lodges at eco-resort Binna Burra Lodge offer a commanding view of Lamington National Park, with a teahouse and bar. It’s close to Natural Bridge, a picturesque rock formation surrounding a waterfall and cave which lights up with glow-worms at night.
The perfect quick rainforest escape – and the place I routinely visit when I return to the Gold Coast – is to follow Currumbin Creek Road towards Cougal Cascade. It’s a healing drive of foliage enclosing the sky, winding roads curving around moss-strewn rock formations, and many creek crossings with splashing locals hiding from the heat.
The road ends at the beautiful Cascade, but is dotted with cafes and shops worth pulling over for, like Pasture & Co in the Currumbin Ecovillage. For lunch perched over the creek, visit Currumbin Valley Harvest: a peaceful community hub with a garden, pantry and cafe extending high over a deep-set stretch of the creek by Boyd’s Bridge. It’s always nice in the sunshine, but especially beautiful after a show of Queensland’s famous tropical rains – the creek gushes and rainwaters trickle off the roof into the stream.
Unfortunately those storms can get wild, and recently Ex-Tropical Cyclone impacted the Gold Coast. Many businesses lost power – and patronage – as a result. Now’s a better time than ever to visit the Gold Coast and support a community at its strongest, working towards rebuilding a burgeoning and beautiful corner of the country.
This article is produced in partnership with Experience Gold Coast. For more local tips and insider info, visit the Gold Coast Experience Exchange to browse other people’s trip highlights and inspire your own perfect itinerary, then share your own memories for others.
