“It’s what Margaret River was like 20 years ago. But everything’s so much closer.” This is how Greg Chatfield describes Denmark, the coastal, forested town in south-west Western Australia that he calls home. It’s also where he works – he moved down from Perth nearly five years ago to take over its IGA Local Grocer.
Having lived and worked in the area for years, Chatfield knows it well – here he shares his must-visit spots in the picturesque regional town, which is a four-and-a-half hour drive from Perth.
His ideal start to the day is a morning swim at Greens Pool, a secluded bay with white sand, turquoise blue water and giant rocks you can splay out on to sunbathe. Denmark’s community life revolves around this hub: it’s where local kids learn to swim, and there’s an ocean-swimming group that Chatfield joins a few times a week. “We do what we call adventure swimming,” he says. “We’re swimming in between rocks, with currents and against currents, while waves are crashing into the pools.”
After a morning of activity, he stops by The Top Shed, a rustic farmhouse-style cafe with corrugated iron walls and strong community vibes. Its locally loved toastie comes with free-range ham, local cheese and homemade relish. Chatfield often orders a coffee and one of the rotating toasted sangas, depending on what’s in season. Plus, there’s sourdough and baked treats like muffins, scones, tarts and brownies. The cafe is set in William Bay National Park, so you can sit and eat outside among the greenery, cows and resident farm dogs Cooper and Siesta.
Chatfield lives in his own little pocket of paradise, in a waterfront home about 20 kilometres outside Denmark. It’s right near entry points to the Bibbulmun Track, a famous long-distance walk that stretches 1000 kilometres from the Perth Hills right down to Albany (the historic former whaling town where author Tim Winton grew up).
But you don’t have to walk your legs off to enjoy Denmark’s scenery. “There are walks everywhere. The more you look, the more you’ll find,” Chatfield says. One of his favourites is along the full length of Ocean Beach. “Once you’re 500 metres in, you hardly see anyone for the next couple of kilometres,” he says. It’s something of a reprieve in a small town where he says he bumps into four people he knows just going for coffee.
Another standout walk is the two-kilometre return trail to Monkey Rock. On the way up you’ll spot towering karri trees – the forest giants of south-west Western Australia – and at the top you’ll be rewarded with vistas of the forest and Denmark’s wild, breathtaking coastline. “The views are just spectacular,” Chatfield says.
When lunchtime arrives, he might head to The Dam, a welcoming venue set on a sprawling 880-acre family farm. The menu uses produce from across southern Western Australia, so you might find charred octopus from Esperance or wild-caught fish from Albany with zucchini, baby capers, lemon and dill oil. “They’re constantly changing the menu. It’s [got a great] atmosphere and view,” Chatfield says.
In the late afternoon, he stops by his IGA to stock up on supplies. The neighbourhood store sells specialty goods you can’t find elsewhere in town. Standouts include cheeses from Dellendale Creamery and organic sourdough from Royale Patisserie in Albany. “People come and wait for it before it even arrives,” he says of the loaves. Chatfield also makes a point to source produce from the Great Southern region. “Some of the peaches we get, they’re ridiculous. I joke with customers that they need to wear a raincoat when they bite into them. They’re only around for a couple of weeks but when they are it’s like: ‘How many can I fit into my bag?’”
For another on-the-go caffeine stop, he’ll visit The Green Pantry Cafe, which pours brews from local small-batch roaster Stash Coffee. It also serves plant-based foods like nourishing Buddha bowls, veggie-loaded frittatas and coconut curries.
Winery-hopping is another favourite afternoon activity if you’re in the Great Southern – and you don’t have to drive far. One of Chatfield’s favourites is Singlefile Wines, a family-run winery known for its chardonnay. “They’ve got great wines, some of the better ones in Australia. The Lakehouse also has a nice selection of wines and it’s another great spot to have lunch,” he says.
For dinner he heads to Boston Brewing, a locally loved brewpub that caters to big crowds. Nab a table on the sprawling lawns outside, a barstool on the deck, or a booth inside by the open fire during the cooler months. You can try the beer that’s made right here on a tasting paddle (or grab a take-home pack for later). From its core range, the Squeeze New England IPA and Peaceful Bay session pale ale are ever-reliable pours. The kitchen serves a selection of woodfired pizzas, alongside dishes like sumac-spiced barramundi, chicken parmigiana, a spicy Thai-style red chicken curry, and smoky barbeque-coated pork ribs, if you plan to hang around.
Watch: Travel Diaries: A Day Trip to Point Lonsdale
Want to escape the city this Easter? We join restaurateurs Alex Gavioli and Daniel Leuzzi on a day trip from Melbourne to Point Lonsdale, where the day unfolds to discover the best local eats and drinks in the region, from artisanal bakery treats at The Local Geelong, followed by an alfresco repast of beachside sandwiches crafted from the bounty of Barwon Heads IGA. As the afternoon wears on, they repair to Noble Rot wine bar, where locally-sourced mussels are paired with the chardy of Gavioli’s dreams
This article is produced by Broadsheet in partnership with IGA. With nearly 1400 independently owned stores around Australia, IGA is more than just a supermarket chain – each store is part of its community. On your next trip, stop into an IGA for local produce, snacks for the road and tips for your stay in the area.
