Is it just me, or does it feel harder to dodge the holiday crowds these days? The explosion of post-Covid travel, wanderlust influencers and digital nomads have turned me into a traveller who spends the entire holiday muttering “bloody tourists” under my breath. (Yes, I recognise the irony.)
One place that changed that for me is Port Vila, the vibrant and underrated capital of Vanuatu. Just three hours’ flight from Brisbane, the coastal city has friendly locals, more roundabouts than traffic lights, and fewer tourists than the hordes found in other places. Exploring street food markets, relaxing at waterfront resorts, swimming in lagoons, waterfall hopping, having sunset dinners and getting whole-body massages are just some of the moments that make up a holiday in this slow-paced paradise.
The busiest place in town is the Port Vila Markets. On a balmy, 28-degree day, Ni-Vanuatu locals flock here for fruit, veggies and street food. The aunties form a moving sea of colour in their Mother Hubbard-style “island dresses”, which pop in shades of magenta and electric green. Their colourful garb is matched by rows upon rows of fresh produce: bright green cabbages, soil-clad taro freshly plucked from the earth, mottled purple and white eggplants, and stringy coconuts ready to be cracked open to accompany lunch.
A popular option is a steaming slab of laplap, the national dish that sees grated root vegetables, bananas, coconut milk and meat wrapped in banana leaves and cooked in an underground oven. Or you can try the manioc (cassava) wraps, a doughy bread stuffed with grilled chicken, tomato, lettuce and a cabbage-laden chilli oil that gave this writer an instant case of the hiccups. Eating at the markets is a win-win: you can try classic Ni-Vanuatu dishes and support local chefs, many of whom were laid off during the pandemic and started their own businesses here.
After filling my stomach, it’s a short drive with Atmosphere Tours to Nasama Resort. The family-run hotel is kitted out with spacious suites, an infinity pool, towering palm trees and thatched-roof beach shelters, which you can enjoy between kayaking or swimming in the coral pool. Its spacious waterfront apartments face the vast Pacific Ocean, which is just a few hundred metres away.
It’d be easy to spend your entire holiday in the crystal-clear water around Efate Island, which sits on shallow fringing reefs. And that usually starts when you choose your waterfront accommodation, whether it’s Nasama or the locally owned Havannah Eco Lodge. On my first afternoon at Nasama, I wriggled into my togs and bolted from my room 150 metres across the sand, zipping past spiny pandanus trees and launching into the ocean. The warm, salty water immediately settled into my skin and switched my body clock to island time.
There are almost endless water-based adventures beyond the hotel, too. Half an hour’s drive from Port Vila, Blue Lagoon is a stunning swimming hole that gives Brooke Shields a run for her money. Here, lopsided trees and verdant shrubs surround a body of sapphire blue water. Tourists and locals alike clamber along tree trunks and grab onto ropes before flying into the cool lagoon. And on the north side of the island, there’s Top Rock, where you can easily lose a day snorkelling through coral reefs and caves, or feasting on fresh fish at the waterfront restaurant.
If you hate getting the sand between your toes, Port Vila is also an ideal spot for a self-care streak. At Volcanic Earth Day Spa, this devout non-napper fell asleep during an hour-long body scrub and massage. At Noa Noa (Vanuatu’s version of Aesop, sans the skyrocket soap prices) I basically ransacked the cabinets under the guise of stocking up on gifts (for myself). Its creative soaps come with ingredients like coffee, volcanic ash, and even lemongrass and kava. Self-care devotees can also stop by Eau des Iles, a locally run perfumery that’s celebrated for its Vanuatu-made tropical scents and candles. Its sleek perfumes – in scents like jasmine and lily, or sandalwood and vetiver – are well-priced by Aussie standards and go a long way to support a local female-led business.
For many folks in Vanuatu, the days close out with kava, a narcotic, dope-like substance that’s widely available at roadside bars. But a bottle of Vanuatu’s Tusker lager under the peachy sunset skies is just as inviting, and Banyan Beach Bar is one of the best places in Port Vila to embrace the ritual. On my last night in Port Vila, its simple set-up ticked all the boxes. A bar adorned with fairy lights served icy Margaritas and blistery woodfired pizzas. Beanbags and tree stumps lined the sandy shoreline, offering front-row seats to the sunset. A local band played covers from Bob Marley to Whitney Houston. And, as the sun set, fire performers lit up the dark skies with a show. The shoreline was full of celebratory locals, feasting families and workers knocking off. And me, another bloody tourist.
The Details
Fly: Virgin Australia flies direct to Port Vila from Brisbane, with return flights starting at $720, depending on the month and day of the week.
Getting around: There are many locally run transport companies in Port Vila, but we’d recommend the friendly folks at Atmosphere Tours.
Stay: You can book waterfront rooms at Nasama Resort via its website.
The writer travelled as a guest of Virgin Australia and Vanuatu Tourism Office.
This story is part of The Travel Issue: Wish You Were Here.
