48 Hours in Christchurch, a City That Deserves Its Moment in the Sun

I always knew you would come back.

The first time I see these words on a street mural is in Christchurch, New Zealand, in a work by Sydney-based artist Elliott Routledge, while I’m on a street art tour that takes me down laneways, through car parks, and behind office buildings.

The line can be interpreted in many ways. Maybe it’s the city talking to its residents. Or perhaps it’s the residents talking to their city? Both feel equally possible because, almost 15 years on from the major 2011 earthquake, Christchurch really has come back. In 2025, the Canterbury region (home to Christchurch) had the fastest-growing population in the entire country.

In the rebuilt city centre, you’ll find a mix of old stone buildings that have been painstakingly repaired, gleaming office towers, eclectic townhouses, creative examples of facadism, and people – lots of them. It feels like almost every Christchurch local is outdoors on the weekend I visit, enjoying public art, sipping espresso, or killing time at wine bars and ice-creameries.

Āmiki Tours, which are led by local Māori guides, help tourists get the lay of the land. My guide, Ash, takes us to Riverside Market for coffee at Espresso Studio by Fushoken, to Rollickin Gelato for sweet treats, then to Colony for a mead tasting, along with other favourite local spots.

For anyone looking to acclimatise, other activities include visiting the Botanic Gardens and punting on the river; checking out an exhibition at the Christchurch Art Gallery (Te Puna o Waiwhetū); hopping on a historic tram; or visiting the Cardboard Cathedral, which was designed by Japanese architect Shigeru Ban and built from glass, cardboard and wood after the quake.

I’m staying at The Observatory Hotel, which was once part of the University of Canterbury, and sits within the Arts Centre. The Arts Centre is a multifaceted precinct for all things cultural and creative. It includes the Teece Museum of Classical Antiquities; a bar serving local drops and wine flights; and Frances Nation, which sells an eclectic mix of baked goods, skincare and souvenir-ready ceramics.

We kick off day two with a trip to New Brighton Beach to visit the He Puna Taimoana hot pools. Just 15 minutes from the city, you can try five different hot pools, a cold plunge, sauna, and steam room. You’ll leave feeling warm, comfortable and relaxed after soaking your body while soaking in the ocean views. Freshly limber, I’m in the perfect state to take on an afternoon hike. Crater Rim Walks offers guided walks for groups of up to 10. As I walk the Sugarloaf Circuit, I see gondolas, mountain bikers, tropical-blue water, ferns and tall grasses. (I’m pleasantly reassured by the fact New Zealand is snake-free.)

Now for the food, a vital part of any holiday. In Christchurch, you’re spoiled for choice with the likes of Londo – it’s a standout spot from Robert Fairs, a lauded local chef who was previously head chef at (the now-closed but much-loved) Roots. Expect an inventive menu – think rhubarb sorbet with olive oil; salad with walnuts, endive, grape gastrique, and manchego; or chicken, lardo, leek and tarragon terrine – in a compact, energetic space. Enjoy Asian, Pasifika and Māori flavours at centrally-located restaurant Manu, and try the relaxed pop-up Makan Junction for some of the city’s best Hainanese chicken rice.

On your way back to Australia, try to secure a window seat on the right side of the plane to score views of beautiful snow-covered mountains surrounded by pillowy clouds.

The writer was a guest of Air New Zealand and Christchurch NZ. Air New Zealand flies directly to Christchurch from Brisbane, Melbourne, Sydney, and has recently launched seasonal (October until May) direct flights from Adelaide.