Boarding Pass: How Danish Musician Agnes Obel Travels

Agnes Obel grew up in Copenhagen and now calls Berlin home. Following the release of her debut album Philharmonics in 2010, the singer, songwriter, producer and classically trained pianist has spent much of the last 16 years touring the world, from France to China to Canada and beyond. 

Her sound spans neo-classical, jazz and chamber pop, with her work scoring some of the most era-defining television shows of recent years, including Euphoria, Big Little Lies, True Detective and The Last of Us, among others. Her live performances are intimate affairs that unfold as lush, dreamy soundscapes rendered in piano, synths and strings. 

Ahead of her Australian tour, Obel shares the places at the top of her travel list: Danish beaches, Norwegian fjords and English countryside included. Plus, her go-to travel outfit and the orchestral music that soundtracks her flights. 

Destinations

Favourite hotel?

I was once invited to a festival in Italy taking place in several cities. Over a week we travelled to one beautiful Italian mountain town after the other, with the last concert taking place in Piedmont de Alba. We stayed a hotel called Villa Beccaris, situated on top of a mountain from where you could view the city of Alba and the ancient wine fields surrounding the place. It was so peaceful and quiet, and felt strangely sacred to us. No roads, no noise, just cicadas, songbirds and the wind sweeping over the hillsides.

Best beach?

At the very top of Denmark, you can find Skagen. Two oceans merge here and it is famous for being very dangerous waters to sail and swim, and for its magical light. Walking along the beach feels like what I would call something like wind and lightning bathing. The houses are all old fishermen houses, made of brick painted yellow. Every summer we would go there for couple of weeks – I can still smell the salt water, and feel the sand and unbelievable light.

City with the best nightlife?

Berlin – my hometown. I do feel a little hypocritical saying this because I have never been much of a club person but, having spent most of my grown-up life in this city, I can say Berlin is the place to go if you want to go out and stay out. Sunday is the day to do it, and the club is, of course, Berghain. In Berlin, it is a culture in itself to go clubbing – it is something that people who truly are a part of this culture need to engage with to find themselves again.

Best antique store or flea market?

My favourite market is the one in Frederiksberg Loppemarked behind the Frederiksberg town house – it’s the best in Copenhagen in my opinion. I found a small Poul Henningsen lamp there a few years ago, and a Finn Juhl high chair.

Favourite shopping destination?

Tokyo. This city is incredible – especially when you venture into the more unknown and residential areas. For vintage clothes I like Shimokitazawa and Nakameguro in the Daikanyama area. I also love the backstreets of Harajuku to wander around and get lost in.

Favourite museum?

The Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, north of Copenhagen. The building and architecture itself are worth the travel, and it almost always has interesting exhibitions on.

Best hike?

Striding Edge in the Lake District in England. Spectacular, a little dangerous and so beautiful.

Most romantic city in the world?

Marseilles. You have the ocean, amazing food and a city that has a depth to it, like Berlin. If it is too much for you, go to Cassis [about 30 mins by car or train] and similar to Marseilles, just smaller and more calm. Otherwise, Kragerø in southern Norway. The fjord is so beautiful and water so serene and blue, and time is suspended for a while.

Food and drink

What’s the most memorable meal you’ve had while travelling?

My parents travelled for food. My father was in the restaurant business and was always looking for inspiration, so it has to be one of these meals experienced in my childhood. For example, the breakfast at Falsled Kro, on the island of Fyn in Denmark. A chef would make eggs or whatever you dreamed of at the table, elevating breakfast to something completely new. I ate the most amazing thin crispy pancake made right in front of me with wild berries from the field just outside the window.

Favourite bakery?

In Berlin, my favourite is Le Brot. They just do sourdough bread and it’s so good. In Copenhagen, an amazing bakery called Hart has opened around the corner from where I grew up. They do a new take on Danish bakery classics.

What restaurant, bar or cafe would you get on a plane for?

Sandi in Milan. Reservation will be very much needed, and try to go there for lunch. Another incredible one in Milan is Ristorante Nuova Arena. It just opened in July, run by a brother and a sister – a beautiful and friendly place with amazing wine. 

The flight

What are your carry-on essentials?

Noise-cancelling headphones, a good book and a notebook. I often listen through demos and voice memos on flights, and note ideas down. For longer flights, I try to remember to bring a big woollen scarf to hide in and use as a pillow and extra blanket.

What’s your packing strategy?

I prefer to check in as much as possible because for some reason I get stressed by the whole carry-on scenario. I have travelled a lot with instruments over the years and it isn’t always easy, so when I travel without [them] I try to make it as simple as possible for myself.

The outfit you wear while flying?

I try to wear loose clothing made of natural materials: silk and cotton. Your body and skin will thank you later. A good big sweater or a loose hoodie is amazing to disappear into when it gets cold or you get tired.

The beauty and skincare products you can’t travel without?  

Eyedrops, almond oil with vitamin E, and Aquaphor or some kind of rich cream with no perfume. I bring a small brush and some dry shampoo as well. And, if I remember, I don’t wear make-up for the flight.

What tech do you pack while travelling?

Headphones: I bring both ear pods and very good noise-cancelling Bose headphones so I can decide how cut off from everything I will be. I mostly just travel with my iPhone and my notebook. I love listening to demos when flying. The mind feels so free when you are surrounded by clouds and blue skies. 

Tips and tricks

Best in-flight survival tip?

Impressionistic piano music like Debussy and Ravel is the trick for me to reset my nervous system and zoom in on the magic of flying through the air, and to make myself start looking forward to being somewhere new.

Best jet-lag hack?

Going outside in nature as much as humanly possible. Avoid downtown since its the most removed from the spirit and time zone of the place you have arrived in. Also try to go out and have a nice meal, even if you are dead tired and alone. It can feel funny and a little strange to dine alone in the beginning, but your body will thank you and your spirit will lift from the experience.

The apps that make life easier while you’re travelling?

Flighty (a flight tracking app), IDF (Paris public transport), TFL Go (UK public transport), Atlas Obscura (a map for unusual local attractions), NTS Radio (for listening while walking the streets in a new city), European Coffee Trip (for finding local coffee places), Beanhunter (also for coffee), The Michelin Guide (for finding food) and Happy Cow (for finding vegan and vegetarian restaurants).

Agnes Obel is playing QPAC as part of Brisbane Festival on September 24, at Hamer Hall in Melbourne on September 26 and at the Sydney Opera House in Sydney on September 27.

agnesobel.com

Boarding Pass is a new Broadsheet series where we speak to tastemakers and travel pros about how, where and why they travel. Last time, we spoke with Australian writer Neha Kale.