Where Chefs Eat in Bali: Potato Head’s Wayan Kresna Yasa Shares His Picks of the Island

Bali’s beauty is something appreciated by many an Australian. Indonesia is so close to us, and we’ve flocked to the island nation for decades to appreciate its people, food and culture.

And while it’s always a good idea to try out your local warung, or wander along the beach till you’re lured in by the day’s catch on a charcoal barbeque, we always love a local’s rec. Chef Wayan Kresna Yasa is the executive chef at Kaum, one of six restaurants and bars at Potato Head, Seminyak’s internationally renowned beach club turned luxury eco-hotel.

Kaum’s exquisite, light-filled dining room is a level up, so you dine among the tops of the palms, with a view over the Potato Head pool to the beach. And it’s here you’ll try Indonesian dishes you might not have seen before.

“When we were conceptualising Kaum, we knew it would be important to travel throughout the country to learn the different local flavours at the source,” Kresna Yasa tells Broadsheet. “So, we actually take a lot of R&D trips to discover long-hidden recipes, or the most popular dishes in regions far from our Bali home.”

A West Sumatran-style dish of coconut-marinated beef zinged up with lemongrass and chillies. Perfect, plump serves of prawn and fish dumplings from West Java. Fish of the day grilled with tamarind water and turmeric, with a hot, fruity sambal, like they do in northern Sulawesi. The calamansi-marinated tuna, from the eastern islands of Maluku, should not be skipped.

“It’s exciting to discover ingredients that I’ve never known before and use them to re-create a dish we learned on our travels. I guess you could say we approach the menu at Kaum by making sure we represent the cuisine of the archipelago, not only from well-known Bali and Java islands.”

A meal (or more) at Kaum is a must-do in Bali, along with Home by Chef Wayan, his restaurant in Pererenan. “Bali is open-minded, we accept everybody no matter their differences. That is the definition of hospitality, is it not? These days you can find anything you desire in Bali, we have a diverse global population now and the spirit of the island and her people is welcoming.” 

Here are his top picks of the island – and where’s best for classics like nasi campur, nasi goreng, babi guling (suckling pig) and more. 

What to order at Home by Chef Wayan: We serve modern Indonesian cuisine, with a focus on Balinese food from my home island of Nusa Penida. Some of my favourite food memories from childhood are on the menu, such as ledok nusa, ayam serosop and seafood seraten, so definitely start by ordering these.

Nasi campur: Warung Betutu Dewi Sri on Jl Raya Munggu-Tanah Lot, serving Ubud-style ayam betutu (spiced chicken), or nasi campur ayam. I’ve been eating here for nine years and it’s finally having the success it deserves. Pro-tip: order your nasi “tidak pedas” if you don’t want a generous amount of chopped up raw hot chilli peppers in your sambal matah. Her sambal is fire! 

Nasi goreng: We cook nasi goreng with sunah cekuh spice paste (with garlic and galangal) at Home by Chef Wayan, which is unusual to find on a menu, so try that if you want something a bit different. But if what you’re after is a familiar and comforting fried rice, go to Wei To Go Chinese. The rice is fragrant and aromatic from the caramelised garlic and soy. I love this combination of flavours. 

Babi guling: Everyone has their own favourite, but I like Babi Guling Gung Cung and Babi Guling Pande Egi, near Ubud. The dish there is special because they serve a variety of urutan, or Balinese-style sausages. The pork is cooked when the meat is fresh and you can taste the difference. 

Fresh seafood on the beach: Menega Cafe at Muaya Beach in Jimbaran. Order ikan bakar (grilled fish), grilled lobster and clams. 

Indonesian coffee: Seniman or Anomali Coffee in Ubud, or Revolver in Seminyak or Canggu.

A lesser-known Balinese dish more people should know about: Ledok nusa (a porridge-like stew, with a variety of toppings), ayam serosop (chicken in a coconut broth) or seraten (steamed fish in a spiced coconut broth). You can get them all at Home by Chef Wayan. These dishes are authentic Nusa Penida island cuisine, and as far as I know, we are the only place you can find it on the menu. 

Something sweet: Baro Bakery in Pererenan, for the cardamom morning bun. 

Casual dinner: Masonry for the lamb shank, smoked tuna dip and bread pudding. Or Yuki for the yakitori and pork chop. 

Big group: If what I’m after is a big venue with nice ambience, good service and delicious food, I’d recommend Kaum, Masonry, Yuki, Meimei or Lulu Bistrot.

Special occasion: I’m bringing my wife to Syrco Basé in Ubud for their tasting menu or Sangsaka in Seminyak for the tasting menu. 

Ubud recommendations: Room 4 Dessert for the best dessert, Pica for great South American food, and Syrco Basé for the fine-dining experience. 

Top area to check out if you have a car: Jatiluwih or Munduk area. It’s quiet, scenic and cool temperatures. 

Kitchen hack: Cook from your heart and with passion, don’t think too much about the recipe and taste, taste, taste until you get it right. 

Favourite late-night snack after service: I make roti bakar (sweet toast) with peanut butter, or quick noodle soup with lots of vegetables. 

Bucket list restaurant: Noma, because the Nordic ingredients and products are so different from our tropical island. Burnt Ends, because I love woodfired cooking. Ban Tepa in Bangkok, for modern Thai cuisine. 

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